18 inch Toilet Rough in

[KiviP]

Hey guys,
I have a weird situation and I want to see if what I have makes sense.
Old toilet flange is roughed in at around 16 inches from studs. Walls had about 1.5 to 2 inches of mud and tile so it was in reality a 14 inch rough in. There is a joist right around 10 to 12 inches. Original plumber destroyed the joist and there is not much left of it. My framer enforced the joist with some thick steel and lag bolts.
Old toilet bend was a leaded pipe so it was build to curve around the joist to get it as close as possible. If i try to set the flange at 16 inches, the closet bend raised end will catch on the top edge of the hole and cause a 1/8 to 1/4 revese slope. In order to get around this i had to set the flange at 18. There is really no good way to work around it without any major changes to get it to 10 or 12. Now if i use the 18 inch, i will have 22 to 23 inches to tub in front. My side distance is 16. My only plan for the gap on the back is to frame a half wall to create a shelf like mini wall. Cant really rotate 90 since it will be closer than 21 inches from front to the vanity. Thoughts?

 

[Reach4]

How about a photo from above, with a tape measure tip at where the wall surface will be, and extending in the direction of that tub that you are expecting your toes to be near while seated.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[KiviP]

Oki doki. it is a bit messy in there so I made a diagram with measurements. The joist is right at 12", so a 10, 12, or 14 rough in is not possible without relocating the joist or boxing it out which will be a pretty big work since kitchen cabinets are hanging right below this and the ceiling needs to be opened up. But here is what I have. It roughly leaves about 21" from the front of the toilet to the tub. Now if I go with a round toilet (not a huge fan), that becomes more of 23.5"
I though of using an offset flange and that can save up another 2 inch but the space is pretty tight for it.

 

[Reach4]

I think you are saying 18.5 is the distance between the back wall, and the center of the 4-inch pipe.

Your 10 and 13.5 numbers would seem to imply that the joist is 3.5 inch thick.

 

[Reach4]

How about you shorten the horizontal pipe by about 1 inch or two.

Then use an offset Pushtite 889-GAOM closet flange into the vertical 4 inch pipe. If you then need less than the full 1.5 inches offset, then angle the flange to the left or right. You might have to whittle a little extra wood from top of that poor joist, for clearance, but I don't think that would weaken the joist any more than it already is.

But that is still unacceptable, since that gets you a 16 inch rough, and you want 14 or less.


If you clarify your 13.5 and 10 inch numbers, you might be able to put the flange on the back wall side of the joist. That would let you sister a strong 2x4 to the joist for strength. Screw and glue. So you put the vertical next to the back wall side of the joist. Whittle clearance for the offset flange. Sister a high-quality 2x4 to the top of the right side of the carved-up joist.

You would have to make sure you have the vertical distance to make this work.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-889-GAOM-4-Full-Flush-889-Series-Gasketed-Offset-Closet-Flange

 

[KiviP]

How about you shorten the horizontal pipe by about 1 inch or two.

Then use an offset Pushtite 889-GAOM closet flange into the vertical 4 inch pipe. If you then need less than the full 1.5 inches offset, then angle the flange to the left or right. You might have to whittle a little extra wood from top of that poor joist, for clearance, but I don't think that would weaken the joist any more than it already is.

If you clarify your 13.5 and 10 inch numbers, you might be able to put the flange on the back wall side of the joist. That would let you sister a strong 2x4 to the joist for strength. Screw and glue.

You would have to make sure you have the vertical distance to make this work.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-889-GAOM-4-Full-Flush-889-Series-Gasketed-Offset-Closet-Flange

Thanks! So the joist is reinforced with a metal bracket that runs at the top of it and it runs for 5ft. Basically stabilizing the joist from the top and preventing it from flexing inwards at the cut. But it is on the other side and it has been glued and lag bolted. So a bit too late The joist is in such a weird spot that even sistering on the other side will still end up putting the center of the toilet at less than 10 inches. I assume with the offset flange, the vertical pipe needs to be cut enough to accommodate for the angle section of offset flange.

 

[Reach4]

Yes. With a Unifit toilet, you can fudge a bit more than the usual 3/8 or so. So if you can get anywhere close, that could work.

These describe how I got an extra inch or so:

http://www.terrylove.com/forums/ind...baseboard-and-shoe-molding.58080/#post-428138 my unifit mod post
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/ind...nifit-or-stick-with-the-12.59681/#post-442544 picture with ruler.
http://www.terrylove.com/forums/ind...rance-with-14-unifit-and-offset-flange.66596/ has marked-up unifit photo.

But if you want to go the 10 inch option, you would move your steel to the other side I guess.

With more changes to your cast iron, you might be able to use a back-exit toilet, or even a wall-mounted toilet. A wall mounted toilet could save you some space.