It looks good, but would look less like a "plate of spaghetti" if you had left the green wires out and just said everything will be grounded. In fact, if you use plastic devices, you will not be connecting the grounds to the boxes anyway.
What you have will work but I would bring power directly to the switches in the bottom box, two wire switch leg to each set of lights out of the switch box and only run the three wire from switch to switch.
One more reason to do it besides personal preference is it is the easiest way to comply with recent code requirement to have a neutral at every switch. 2014 code has backed off on some of the locations but the rule still exists.
quote; it is the easiest way to comply with recent code requirement to have a neutral at every switch.
It is a "dumb" requirement, and it is only "easier" if it is "easy" to run a two wire to the switch location. In many instances that would require a 3 wire to the switch, it the leg is being dropped out of the fixture to the switch.
and it is only "easier" if it is "easy" to run a two wire to the switch location. In many instances that would require a 3 wire to the switch, it the leg is being dropped out of the fixture to the switch.
quote; it is the easiest way to comply with recent code requirement to have a neutral at every switch.
It is a "dumb" requirement, and it is only "easier" if it is "easy" to run a two wire to the switch location. In many instances that would require a 3 wire to the switch, it the leg is being dropped out of the fixture to the switch.
IMHO, it is only "sort of dumb". The way things are going, in a few years, a good light bulb may end up using not much more power than an electronic lighting control. In that case, having a neutral to power the control is probably better than relying on residual current through the bulb...