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Not sure why but im not complaining lol.. you might find this interesting.. because we have no access to the basin, theres a buzzer with a red light that goes off everytime the pump fails and directs you to call the town to come fix it!

Yeah I believe its the towns duty to manage the basin and the sewr line but I just wanted to watch over them this time and have an idea of what to look for. Thing is, as soon as they replaced the worn out old sewage pump, is when my bills started to skyrocket.. im not even sure where the check...

How does ground water get into the pit? It sounded like it was filling up every 5 mins. I dont think ground water could fill up that pit in 5 mins while it hasnt rained in a few days do you? my theory is that either the pump isnt pumping it out to the road and its flowing back on a continues...

So my sewage goes from my basement and into a basin outside the house, underground, that collects the sewage and once it reaches a certain point it gets pumped out to the street. My electric bill has been thru the roof and ive been trying to figure out why. I decided to check my water meter...

Thanks so much for this one! Only question I have is how to remove the drop ear elbow thats been nailed down. If If I cut from the front into the tile around the shower head arm, its going to have to be massive in order for me to get a hammer or multi tool in there to remove the nails holding...

First time doing this and im not sure why but i’m definetley anxious here. The whole front of shower is tiled to the ceiling and no rear access panel. Its an old 3 handle and the galvanized pipe that runs to it is clouded so bad its almost closed. Was gonna install a simmons valve. The pipe...

Im doing all hard pipe down from the heater to the bottom tee in the picture then hooking up csst to the t.

Going to hook up a dynaglo wall heater. The gas inlet is 3/8”. Can I hook up a 3/8” nipple to the heater and then use a 3/8” x 1/2” reducing coupling to finish up the rest of the install?

Its in close quarters to my foundation so I cant hammer anything in there to reround it. Any suggestions?

No core drills to rent around me. Ive heard you cant solder and underground pipe? Is this true? Nothings ever easy.

Not sure what you mean. The hole in the copper is in the concrete. Theres no water on the outside of the house portion of pipe.. I think I might be reading what youre saying wrong.

Suspect has been located... not sure but it looks like they just layed on the concrete where the pipe meets the foundation a bit too much.. should I just chip it away?

Hi ho silver!

Ok I only asked because its in my way and is gonna cause me more work to have to dig more for working room. I did pull of a section of it. 5 feet down, another foot to go.. plumber called and quoted me 1100 to fix... its my motivation for the day. As far as filling in the gap between the steel...

Pipe was broken and looks abanded, least i hope it is lol.. its clay pipe, can i smash it and continue digging? Its clearly broken lol

Ok guys I think ive found the product im going to use between the copper pipe and the steel sleeve. Just some good old polyurathane sealent. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-S10-10-fl-oz-Concrete-Crack-and-Masonry-Polyurethane-Sealant-1618522/203156788 Anyone see a problem with this?

Maybe wires, but my sink drain and bathroom drain all lead to other side of the house

Only thing people are mentioning is butyl rubber sealent and spray foam

I have a pit that my sewage goes into and is pumped to the road but the pit and sewage outlet is on the other side of the house.

Now im trying to figure out how to jam concrete between the copper pipe and steel pipe after the pipe is layed, lol.. compression fitting, nope was just gonna solder it!