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I would like to push the p-trap up into the floor joists so I don't have to box it out. Is it ok to use two 90's that eventually connect into the stack? Or should I be using two 22.5's (sweeping corner)?

I know you guys are sticklers for things but I am in a bit of a jam. I'm working in a Craftsman home built in 1912 on the upper floor above the kitchen. The client wanted a zero threshold shower but there is not enough room for a 2" p-trap below the Schulter flange. However there is an old...

I want to take this off as shown with the blue oval. Do I need to heat up to preventing cracking? Any tips? Thanks

The p-trap is to low for my liking. I'd like to push the p-trap into the floor joist (2x10) and then run it across about 20" down, turn and then to existing connection. Trying not to make a new connection in the stack as it's hard to access.

The p-trap is to low for my liking. I'd like to push the p-trap into the floor joist (2x10) and then run it across about 20" down, turn and then to existing connection. Trying not to make a new connection in the stack as it's hard to access.

Please see the attached picture. I would like to add a sink in the location shown. I'm thinking it could be tied into the 2" stack coming down from the upper bathroom sink. What is the maximum distance from the stack the sink can be without adding a vent? Thanks

I just moved the washer and dryer to the center of the home. As you can see by the pictures the run was long, about 15-16ft. I made sure of the correct slope. So I just hooked the washer up yesterday and when it drains a very small portion backs up from the floor drain as shown in the picture...