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If AAVs always had to be placed above the fixture rim then much of the appeal of using them would be lost? In an earlier post of yours you showed an image which doesn't have the AAV placed above the fixture rim.

I'll look closer from the basement area to see if it is vented but a plumber has already been there to clear a main line pluggage and claimed there's no vent.

Can I use the above setup to vent the tub? I would place the AAV behing the tub where it still would be accessible from the basement.

Lav is not vented, I saw no penetrations in the roof and saw no likely place where it would be tied into another existing vent. That Rector Seal product looks nice but I'm not sure if I will have the room in the vanity cabinet with the short stubout from the wall. As for the tub vent, If I...

Wanted to update everyone on this. I rippedout that plastic sleeve (photo attached). I then discovered the sink casting was out of round. I ground it smooth and round with a stone on a rotary tool. Shining a flash light through the drain helped identify the areas that needed ground. I was also...

A friend found out that her vanity and tub drain are not vented and asked if I could take a look at it. I am thinking of adding two AAVs, one in the vanity cabinet (if i have enough room since its a P trap and not an S trap and there isn't much of a stub out). I am also thinking of adding one on...

Thanks Terry but this drain assembly is one piece, not two separate like in your photo. And I thought I had it sealed, nope, it's weeping. I'm going to rip this plastic sleeve out I suppose.

Were you able to examine the pump impeller at all or is it not visible? The pump could have sucked up something that damaged it. I would clean the pit out too if you can (garden hose and shop vac). Also, in regards to centrifugal pumps drawing more amps - give a centrifugal pump an...

Well, I think I got it taken care of with a hefty amount of dope on the mack washer. But this got me thinking in regards to popup assemblies with overflows...there is always stagnant water sitting in the overflow cavity around the popup assembly because water enters the overflow openings on the...

The pop up drain is made for an overflow. My speculation is water is flowing into the drain and then sort of "splashing"/running into the overflow cutout on the popup assembly. From there the water is then entering that gouged/peeled away area of the plastic sleeve. From there it now flows...

The sink does have an overflow hole below the flood rim. This plastic sleeve seems like it is a means to get a smooth channel for water that comes from the overflow. If you look in the photo there is a sort of "channel" in that sleeve.

There is an overflow. That plastic sleeve is almost like a "channel" for the water that enters the overflow at the top of the sink. Also, if there was no putty seal, water would enter under the popup flange, flow into the area of the sink casting surrounding the popup drain tube, and either...

So you've encountered these plastic sleeves before in the sink outlet? I may try filling that gouged in area of the plastic sleeve with silicone, otherwise I may try a non overflow pop-up.

The Moen drain assemblies are not a two piece so the drain flange does not thread into the tailpiece, it's all one piece. Also, yes I used stain free putty. Any other ideas?

Hey guys, fighting a leak at a lav sink outlet at the mack washer from installing a new Moen faucet and pop up drain w/ overflow (sink has overflow). I attached some photos but I can not stop a leak at the mack washer. This a custom lav top from when the house was built in 2005 and it had a...

Is it permissible to have the condensate drain from a heat pump water heater (5/8" tubing likely) and the back wash waste from the water softener set to discharge into the same trapped standpipe? If so, what size would be required, 1.5"? Also, is an air gap fixture needed or could I satisfy air...

That's a good question. I'm guessing 3-4". I guess I'm wondering if this repair can be made without demoing any concrete.

There is no bell visible from above ground or it is covered in concrete. Drain2 shows a vertical section. I bent the borescope into a "J" shape so you are looking back up vertically towards the vent of sewage stack. So assuming it is sealed with concrete , aor oakumn acceptable repair would be...

The sewage stack at my parent's house is 3" copper and has been replaced in pieces due to sections becoming thin and developing pinhole leaks. I snaked a bore-scope camera through the cleanout (in the photo below, the camera lens is looking back up through the sewage stack, you can see the clay...

Update: I tested my water with a Hach hardness test kit and it came back at 0 GPG. It just confuses me how the water has gone from slimy and soft feeling to how it is now. I guess the softener is working properly.