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I flush yearly but it's very clean every time.

The old and new unit are the same except LP/NG. Yes stainless tanks. No glycol this is for DHW. The burner is some sort of coper/nickel alloy.

So... My HTP light duty heat exchanger (NG) developed a leak. Took it apart and found the burner tube full of water. Cleaned it out and it slowly refilled. I was pretty happy with this unit and was using it for radiant heat in my basement floor and it seemed to do fine. So here's my weird...

I measured my BF, just as you did, @ .28GPM so you need to approx double your calculations. My total salt does is 16 lbs. for 48k grains. I contacted hach about the 30gpg limit and diluted with 1/2 distilled to measure. Multiple tests (including *not* diluting) give me that same 42. My...

I replaced the air check.

Updated OP with solution.

I do appreciate your input on this. I did return the permeate pump and asv90 and grabbed a 50gpd 1:1 pentair membrane and electronic shut-off and pressure switch. Everything works much better.

Ok this makes sense. IDK why my brain isn't working when it comes to this topic. I'm going to try a few things this week... I'll probably try without the permeate pump first and see how the TDS reads.

But how would you control the booster if also used with a permeate pump? It sounds like an ultimate yet expensive setup but the pump would run forever.

Apologies. My old system was a watts WP-4V and after looking at it I see there is an integrated ASOV on top. My new setup is a Ukoke RO8-L and I did remove the existing ASOV to replace it with the 90%. I'm aware of the different hookup layout of the 90% valve. I also bought the permeate pump on...

I think I figured it out. I need an electronic shut off for the supply that closes once the tank pressure is satisfied.

I bought the ERP-500 permeate pump and the ASV90 shut off valve after reading quite a bit here. It doesn't come close to the pressure/flow my old watts setup with an aquatec booster pump had. I still have the aquatec pump and would like to utilize it for maximum pressure on this new system but...

Go to the pentair website and send them an e-mail. The guy I worked with was super helpful.

I had some weird problems with mine too. Settings would change on their own after a power fail. Pentair tech support had me do a master reset and all was good after that. Hold the extra cycle button while powering up the valve. This will wipe everything so be prepared.

That makes sense. I guess I'll let it BW one more cycle then replace it.

I do the same on my iron filter but not the softener. Since that doesn't get as gunked up. I really see no reason to leave it on if I'm not backwashing resin to drain

Found a little pipe dope from install that had squeezed its way into the resin. I pulled the basket and ran the BW so all that gunk could get flushed. My resin expands to about 6" below the valve. Any reason to not leave it this way?

Yea I'll fix that for sure I just hope it helps my issue.

Found something... Bubbles during the BD cycle. Only after the brine has been sucked down. I'm assuming this not good for an upflow system. I recall dittohead saying the bed must be undisturbed during BD for upflow. I saw bubbles in the drain line then grabbed a light and watched inside the tank...

No iron, have a katalox filter upstream of the softener. Upflow has different geometry I'm sure. It's marked with a different color. After 500 gallons hardness quickly rises.