There is no such thing as a reliable suction strainer as they will get clogged up and are not reliable. But you can get Wye Strainers that at least does not have leaky o-rings like these.
https://www.watts.com/products/plumbing-flow-control-solutions/strainers/y-wye-strainers
I am familiar with Y-strainers and basket strainers as used in industry. Our lake water pump suction is unfortunately not a very good application for a Y-strainer - small screen area, more difficult cleaning and higher pressure loss. Other than quality, our unit with basket & bowl works - screen never gets clogged up. I posted because I was looking for any experience some may have with better quality units. That is all.
Pumps will pass fairly large particles right on through, so it is best to filter on the discharge side of the pump so the pump is not starved for water. It is the flow switch in the controller that needs the strainer. Like I said a good pump control doesn't need a strainer. A good pump and control will also last several times longer than what you have.
We DO
filter on the discharge side. On the suction we have a
strainer to remove the larger stuff. After pump, automatic backwash filter, 5micron cartridge and UV light.
We originally had conventional Berkeley & another cast iron shallow well type pump in this service for ~29 years. Total cost incl maintenance was high. Pumps had the usual pressure tank and switch control. The switches were no end of trouble and we had at least two pressure tanks. The pressure switch ports either blocked or the switch malfunctioned. We had two pumps self-destruct - melted plastic internals and other problems due to not shutting off. Bought parts and repaired. I considered some type of temperature sensing shut-off, but never found anything that was worth buying along with a new pump for $$$. Maybe the controller you are peddling tries to solve this problem for pumps of this old type. Anyway, I don't need one
Going over my records - In 2008 I bought our first Burke pump with Fluomac. The Fluomac includes automatic shut-off if flow is not established. So instead of another Berkeley or Goulds, I basically paid $279 for new pump including built in pump protection controls! I disposed of the water tank and old pumps that just took up space
My experience with the Burke/Fluomac over past 14 years:
- replaced internal plastic venturi and two o-rings - $27
- replaced pump seal $20
- replaced diaphragm on Fluomac cone due to small drip. $15
I found a pump of similar design but different make on fire sale. Bought it to install while doing repairs. Always good to have a spare! (It is almost identical to Burke, but sold by Canadian Tire who do not sell any parts for their pump!) It still works after a JBWeld repair
. Now my second spare!
In late 2021, I bought a new Burke + Fluomac for $400. Decided to install seeing warranty starts from purchase date. Still running and original still available as a spare (easier swap that my other spare). I have solved the problem of it not starting after sitting overnight. Very small suction leak.
Here is a picture of a pump control that was the predecessor to the Cycle Stop Valve where the pump was not touched for 52 years.
Looks like those pumps are ready for the dump!
OK - back to looking for a better suction strainer or just o-rings that fit the existing. I have found several, but no first hand experience or reviews.