Recent content by SAS

I finished solving the last part of this problem today! If you go back to my original post, I started down this path because of water pressure issues in the master bath shower. After repairing the PRV, re-pressurizing the expansion tank and making sure that the water pressure was stable at...

I'm all set now, but I thought I would pass along a suggestion to anyone in the future who might run into the same problem with the pressure tank valve too close to the wall or ceiling. I found an inexpensive adapter that works great. I lost a bit of air pressure while attaching it to the tank...

The purpose of the expansion tank is to change the water pressure in the system. Or perhaps a better way of putting it is to say that the purpose of the tank is to prevent the water pressure in the system from rising due to thermal expansion. It does that by absorbing the extra volume of water...

I gave it some serious thought until I realized that the other side of the wall was the tiled wall of the bath/shower.

Yes, the only potential fly in the ointment is if the bladder isn't 100% and starts allowing water to pass through. When I inflated the tank it held the pressure, but that was only for a few minutes. Over time the pressure could drop, and then I will have to replace the tank. The only way...

That was my original plan, but if you look at the photo in one of the previous posts you'll see that there is no room to connect the pump to the air valve. There is actually less than an inch between the end of the air vavle on the tank and the wall. That's why I was considering reconfiguring...

I did not have any fittings at hand, but I couldn't use a 90 degree fitting because that would put the tank in the doorway. So while I don't like the current configuration, my priority was simply to get the water pressure stabilized. My first step was to install a repair kit in the PRV. Prior...

Well, t turned out that it wasn't quite as easy as I had hoped. Here's what the installation looks like: There is less than 1 inch between the end of the air valve and the wall. I tried various sources for an attachment that would enable me to pump air into that valve, but no one had...

Thanks. That makes sense and should be easy enough to do.

What is the best/simplest way to depressurize the system so that I can check the pressure in the expansion tank? Just turn off the water main and open a faucet until the system pressure goes to zero? Or shut off the valve that feeds the hot water heater and drain some (how much?) water from...

I think that may be the issue. I've lowered the pressure to about 50 psi and I'm going to buy a gauge with a lazy hand to see if that spike is a recurring problem. Examining the expansion tank is going to be a challenge. It's installed horizonatlly above the water heater with only 1-2 inches...

I was going to get another gauge, but I now have a more pressing issue. I just checked the gauges and they were both around 100 psi! I can't imagine what caused the spike, but I ran some water to lower the pressure and adjusted the PRV quite a bit. I'm not sure how long you need to wait...

I'm guessing that's 1/2 psi/foot? It's about 4 feet, so that would account for about 2 psi of the 7 psi difference. For now, I've set the PRV so that the gauge on the hose bib reads 70 psi and the indoor gauge reads 77 psi. At that level the water pressure in the house seems to be fine and at...

So I've replaced the innards of the PRV and the everything seems to be working fine now. I do have one dilemma, however. The new gauge that I installed on the sillcock shows a pressure of 76 while the old gauge that is installed just before the water softener shows 83. Other than mechancical...

Yes, the sillcock is definitely downstream of the PRV. In fact, even the meter is downstream of the PRV. There is a shutoff valve before the PRV, then the meter, then another shut off valve. My plan is to turn off the first valve, open a faucet to relieve the pressure and then turn of the...