Recent content by Marzec

Yes, I have had to secure both cast iron and galvanized vent stacks in some other units I have rehabbed. I have used blocking and some combination of metal strapping and clamping to secure them. For galvanized pipe a sawzall blade works well and you definitely have to be careful. For cast iron...

Interesting points regarding a wet vs dry vent. And thank you for the advice. I will go ahead and use an AAV for this install. Any advice specific to using an AAV? My understanding is that it should be up as high as possible in the cabinet. But is say 6" above the trap outlet sufficient?

For clarification in case there was confusion, the second photo is not my install. I included it just to illustrate the possibility of adding a similar clean out. I'm referring to it as a wet vent because the drain/vent stack in the wall serves as both the drain and the vent for the kitchen...

For clarification in case there was confusion, the second photo is not my install. I included it just to illustrate the possibility of adding a similar clean out. The 90 in the first photo is basically directly connected to the 2" drain/vent stack in the wall. The vent runs up the wall and out...

As I mentioned, there is already a wet vent behind the wall for the kitchen sink drain.

I will be installing a new kitchen drain in one of my apartments units. The 2" drain pipe in the photo connects to a 90 where the cabinet is cut out. Right after the 90 it is connected to the existing drain with a wet vent that is behind the wall and goes through the roof. My plan is to simply...

I installed a new water heater in one of my empty apartment units and I reconfigured the gas pipe. I wanted to run the pipe as close to the water heater as possible because this utility room will also contain a washer and dryer and it's very tight space. Yes, I could have run the pipe up higher...

I already had one break due to insufficient support and allowing it to just overhang on the front. A tenant learned back against it and it broke. There's definitely a large gap in the front that doesn't make any contact with the top of the vanity.

The vanity is 24" wide by 21" deep. The top is 25" wide by 22" deep. The vanity is set in a corner so the top overhangs one side by 1"+ and the front by 1"+. The top needs to be supported pretty much all the way to the edge. My plan is to rip 1x material that will serve as stable base for the...

Now I understand what you meant. I thought you were saying I needed to add a dry vent to complete the design. But you're saying the dry vent section only needs to be 1 1/2". I labeled it "wet vent" since it becomes a wet vent below the lav drain, but where I labeled it it's definitely dry...

Thanks for your input. Why is a dry vent needed in addition to the wet vent? This diagram is similar to one out of the IPC except in that example there is a horizontal main line rather than a vertical stack.

This layout is for a small bathroom in an apartment with a garage underneath. Is this a good plumbing design that meets code (I've attempted to do so)? Or would it be better to tie the tub drain in closer to the 3" vertical stack? Any other suggestions?

Sounds like great advice. Thanks! Not sure if the plumbing supply house I go to carries Mission, but I assume any quality shielded stainless steel band for CI to PVC should work. And yeah, I will install a cleanout.

I am rehabbing one of my apartments that sits above a garage and I have a situation where the a 4" cast iron soil stack in a garage has been cut flush with the concrete floor. The stack was already broken at garage floor level and therefore needed to be replaced. Unfortunately, since it was...

I sort of did that as well. I notched it out using an oscillating tool and then used a 5/16 spade bit to clear out some material. I then used a small chisel to clear out the rest.