Recent content by laynes69

Our old setup had a semi plugged fridge filter and a saddle valve. When we upgraded, it took forever for water to come from the fridge anywhere. When I updated our plumbing, I took out the saddle valve and installed a dedicated valve off the main line and replaced the filter. Now when the ice...

Well, after a long day, I'm done! I turned on the tub, flushed the toilet and turned on the vanity and no changes in pressure. It costs me around 400 total. I also have alot of old soft copper to scrap. I ran about 80' in 3/4 copper. Still I cant believe the difference.

Will do! Tomorrow I should be removing the 3/8 line for the hot main and then tie in the rest of the hot/cold to 3/4 inch.

I'm regenerating the softener now. I do think it should've ran through the rinse cycle longer initially, but I dont know enough about softeners to get too specific on settings. I figured what you said would about be the case, but I wasnt sure. I did notice initially the kitchen sink and tub were...

So after much debate in my head, I decided to repipe (repair) the plumbing in copper. Since the 3/4 pex they put in after the water main tied to 1/2 copper, then reduced to 3/8 for the hot main, I'm putting in a 3/4 copper main and branching 1/2 for individual fixtures. I'm part way done, and...

Okay. Thank you for your help.

So my next question. A homerun system sounds good, but running mulitport tees off a main would still produce the same results correct, or a manifold inline, as long as the supply still remains sufficient enough? We can shower and run the washer now, however I want a system that allows everything...

Within the last few months, we had our old jet pump replaced with a submersible. Our pressures shot up, and everything has been good. The current issue is we have a plumbing nightmare. Mismatched lines (1/2" main to 3/8 on hot line) and we lose pressure since everything is basically shared with...

We just paid almost $3,000 dollars to have a 3" grunfos pump, new 44 gallon pressure tank and the casing extended and welded to remove our well pit and deep well jet pump. It was the best money we have spent. Our pressure went from 25-40 to 45-65 and there's no more priming or dealing with the...

We were getting ready to have our well converted to a submersible with a pitless adaptor, when our wood furnace developed a hole in the heat exchanger. So the 3,000 we were going to spend on the well, will be going in other areas. Our issue occurs when too much water is used at the same time...

Okay. Thank you, I'll keep this in mind.

The water has iron, but even without a softener it's not terrible. Which valve would be needed? Also is there a simple diagram for installation?

So the installer could just use a smallet pressure tank, the normal pressure switch, and all I would need is the cycle stop valve? Like I say, he's not too familiar with them, and around here nobody I know has them, but it shouldn't be an issue.

I was under the impression all of the 3" pumps were VFD, but I guess not. The driller said it's about an 800 dollar pump. I believe the casing is a 4" cast, and the well is from the 50's (guessing...no drill record). He quoted over the phone in the $2000 dollar range, so I guess it wouldn't be...

I'm sick and tired of messing with our deep well jet pump. The system keeps losing prime, the pressure sucks and the setup is over 20 years old. We decided to remove the jet pump for a submersible pump and to get rid of the well pit. Upon speaking to the well company, they don't install many...