Recent content by Chris in Redlands

Thanks, Terry! Glad I asked. That would have been a disappointing thing to discover after getting everything home. Wouldn't be the first time...The Santa Rosa I'll be replacing is a chair-height model I bought accidentally many years ago. I'll be glad to see it go. Seattle would be a pretty...

As the last item in our recently completed bathroom remodel, we decided to get a Toto Washlet C5. I assumed that it would fit on our existing Kohler Santa Rosa toilet, which it does not. The one-piece design won't allow the Washlet to be mounted far enough back. As pointed out in other threads...

Just dropping in to say "thanks" to everyone who helped me with this and to share some pictures of the finished job. Here's an album of photos of the finished bathroom. I was able to do everything by myself on this job, largely because of the help of all of you here. Thanks!

Just dropping in to say "thanks" to everyone who helped me with this and to share some pictures of the finished job. Here's an album of photos of the finished bathroom. I was able to do everything by myself on this job, largely because of the help of all of you here. Thanks!

So...THAT'S why ,,,and now I know :) This is what I suppose I'll end up doing. I'll probably be back here soon to ask how to retrieve the tap when I drop in inside the wall. Ha! Thanks!

I think I'll go with a "belt and suspenders" approach, teflon tape + some sort of dope. Interestingly, after pricing 1 1/2 galvanized pipe with at least 1 end threaded to make a homemade "tap" i discovered that it's actually less expensive to buy a tap on ebay. Picked one up today for $30...

Highland! Just down the road! Would you recommend the final build be galvanized rather than plastic? I was leaning toward plastic assuming my odds of getting a reliable seal would be better with plastic than with metal and pipe dope.

Wow, thanks for all the good tips! I had planned on using a small flexible shaft tool with a burr on the end of it to knock down the corrosion beyond the three or four good remaining threads in the drain pipe. As you can probably imagine, the threaded hole into the drain pipe is so corroded that...

Thanks! I probably should have shared some pictures. here's the old pipe with the escutcheon attached. It's more like 3 3/4 inches, i guess. You can also see how much thread i have to work with, and the corrosion that this old dog suffered over the years. And here is the hole in the wall. I'm...

Total amateur question here, but I'm trying to figure out how best to stub out the drain pipe that will eventually connect to the p-trap so i can finish tiling, but I don't yet know what sort of p-trap i'll be installing. Might be a decorative exposed one or just a standard PVC one, depending on...

You know, it never occurred to me for a minute that I could do this, and it kind of changes everything. We'll be using this for showers way, way more often than baths, so it makes total sense to move the valve up. It would only be a few inches I'd need to make that run totally reasonable for...

Wow, they certainly have given a lot more thought to the poor bastard who has to install the spout than Inolav has...a much smarter system. I have so much time and thought into this one, though, that it's almost a matter of pride to figure it out. I also have the spout in my possession already...

This is actually the only reason i'd even entertain doing this with copper as an amateur. The valve's tolerances are 1/2 inch. (2 1/2" to 3" from the back of the valve to the finished wall surface). I have it set up now for the plastic case to sit flush with the finished wall, but could actually...

That's correct, for sure. And the coupling for the spout increases the pressure somewhat over what it might have been on a "normal" spout because it chokes down to a mere 1/4 inch ID. I guess i am thinking more along the lines of "it's only pressurized when the tub is being filled, not when I'm...

That's very helpful. The centerline of the copper dropping from the valve is 1 15/16" (1-3/16 (centerline to back of backerboard) + 12/16 (thickness of backerboard and subway tile)) from where i need the coupling and flange to be when everything is snugged up if they're going to be flush. It...