Recent content by ajs317

Thanks, Wayne, very clear and helpful. I'll play with these options and see what's easiest to execute.

Thanks, Terry. Agree, I don’t think I need that extra 90. The picture makes sense. Appreciate it.

One other question: do I need the trap arm to extend beyond (to the right in my picture) of the vent? Or can I run the trap arm into a san tee and then have a single vertical pipe running up to the AAV and down to a wye and 1/8 bend to connect to the existing horizontal pipe?

Yes, it slopes toward the right side of the picture. I think I see what you're saying with the 45 and wye, and that makes sense. I'll try that. Any thoughts on the rest of the setup?

In that box where the hoses are connected right now. The washer drain is connected to a standpipe on a wall that's catty corner to this one. I'm moving the washer to a wall that's perpendicular to where it used to be.

I'm looking to install the drain pipe and associated vent for a washing machine as detailed in the attached picture, connecting to an existing horizontal drain pipe. I've attached a marked version of how I think it should look, but I'd appreciate it if anyone could tell me if this looks right...

I have an oil supply line (single line) buried in concrete somewhere underneath my basement foundation floor that runs to an outside tank. I'm in the process of finishing the basement, which will involve screwing wall plates and a plywood subfloor into the concrete floor with tapcons, so I'm...

Hi Terry, no reason I couldn't do that. Is fewer larger holes better than more smaller holes? I suppose one drawback would be that you couldn't use those premade abrasion clips that clip around the pipe and sit in the joist hole, but maybe there's another way to protect the PEX where it crosses.

I'm working on a project to replace the monoflow piping in my basement, which connects to in-wall convector units with finned tube copper in each room of the house. I'm planning on replacing the copper piping and the zone controls currently in multiple locations with 1/2" PEX home runs to a...

Thanks. I may give it a try and see how it goes. It's a 3/4" tube, and the rings that I use have a little stop on them that may help keep them from slipping and I have the Milwaukee tool so I'd only need a few seconds. In any case, I'll keep a sharkbite valve on hand in case I need to go that...

I need to insert a new ball valve into a section of my main AquaPEX water line. Unfortunately, the only valve on the line now is an old gate valve right before the water meter, and with this valve tightened all the way by hand, there is still a trickle of water flowing through. Can I cut into...

Thanks. The filter is a good idea for a temporary fix. Anyone have any thoughts on the internal piping?

The downspout is in a tough spot, and unfortunately I can't move it at this time, but it could be a project for another day. Yes, the front yard is on a slope and is tiered such that the yard is higher than the patio. Luckily the section of the pipe where it comes in won't be covered by a...

No, these pipes all connect to my septic tank, and I don't have any sump pumps or drain tile setups. I haven't done a full excavation outside along the foundation, but I'm pretty sure that the galvanized pipe connects back to a single downspout that disappears into the ground right near where...

I have two drain pipes, one galvanized steel and one copper, running the length of one of my basement walls that I would like to replace with PVC. They are currently right up against the concrete block, and I’m planning to put foam board behind them and thus move them out by a couple of inches...