Solder and torch tips

[Bob from accounting]

Been watching tons of tutorials and asking lots of questions. Going to DIY new main valve and reroute my copper pipes from the main to the WH, water softener loop and RO.

One thing that popped up on me was this hole thread on Torch safety and blowing up your house if you tilt it the wrong way? WTF? I don't plan on holding it up side down of course.

going to hire a plumber to cut the main 1 1/4" or maybe it is 2" main? Can't tell the size. Than connect a ball valve.
From there I was going to take it from there. 1" to softener and WH. Then from there 3/4" out and then break it out to 1/2" for fixtures.
I feel like I got this.
But now I am on the fence to use Map or propane and which torch to get. I will have like 8-10 joints/fixtures on the 1". So maybe Map gas based on the size? One paragraph I read was fearful with Map gas as it may get too hot and dissolve all the flux and the joint won't work? So should I roll with propane if I am mainly working with 1", 3/4" or 1/2"?
Also, holding the torch, what are the rules of thumb, don't hold it upside down, use a fire cloth have water/distinguisher around But this guy freaked me out about blowing up my house?

 

[hj]

"BLowing up the house" had to be hypebole, because I have no idea how it could possibly happen. Now "burning down the house" is a very good possiblity if you are careless. I hold the torch ANY WAY I have too, including upside down, to make the joint, and I ALWAYS use MAPP gas, regardless of the size pipe.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Sylvan]

I used to give welding (Oxyacetylene ) safety courses and the only time the fuel was a safety issue was when we used acetylene such as a B tank

When handling large acetylene tanks they had to be upright for 12 hours before use because the acetone becomes unstable and liquid can enter the gauge

The Acetylene is actually one of the safer fuels available as it is lighter then air and will not pocket as other fuels can (propane is possibly the worst)

I still use B and MC tanks as acetylene with the proper torch such as swirl jet as the feather of the flame hovers around 4,800 degrees with Oxygen and acetylene its closer 6000 deg F

The hotter the flame the faster the joint can be completed with capillarity action drawing the alloy into the joint

 

[Dj2]

I can't tell you how many home fires started with a careless use of a plumber's torch.
But then again, you know that most soldering don't end up with fires.
Around wood (studs or others), insulation, plastic and tar paper, use a metal shield to absorb the heat. Move the shield around with an adjustable wrench, not with bare hands.
Have a spray water bottle next to you, just in case.
Construction can be a battle field or a pleasant ride if you think twice before you do something once.

 

[Sylvan]

When an open flame is not possible (hospitals for example) we use electric for soldering as we heat the fitting and it draws the solder in BUT it takes a few minutes We also used to have electric pots for melting lead for caulking joints

https://www.toolup.com/ridgid-62862...UK4IbyTWOYlrf8P57HJAobf2vSxSogk0aAj_WEALw_wcB

 

[Fitter30]

As for as a fire just keep a spray bottle with water nearby as stated in other posts. Mapp gas is the way to go and wear jersy gloves. Never touch the clean soldering surfaces with your bare fingers and concentrate heat on the back of the joint to pull the solder in. Joints have to be clean and fluxed.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Soldering copper is like anything else, takes some practice and do and don't. If you never did it before, get a pile of fittings and copper pipe and practice outside somewhere. The basic trick is to learn when to remove the heat and when to apply the solder.

• Propane or MAPP. MAPP is a hotter flame and sometimes needed for larger pipes. Propane is good and it is what I learned on. It's personal preference.
• Do clean all parts to be soldered.
• Do use tinning flux.
• Do use solder for plumbing.
• Do clean and assemble all fittings that are close to one another, then solder.
• Do start at the bottom and work up, when soldering a vertical section of pipe with several fittings.
• Do remove the flame in time so the solder does not continue to run

1. Do not attempt to solder with water in the pipes. It'll never get hot enough and end up with cold solder joints.
2. Do not overheat the copper, if it turned bluish and it cannot be cleaned, the pipe is ruined.
3. Do not overfeed the solder. Too much it will bead up inside the pipes and cause damage or clog up valves
4. Do not keep the flame on the joint after soldering.

 

[hj]

NEVER use acid-core solder for plumbing, (or for electrical either, for that matter).

























9or electical either for that matter).

 

[Terry]

I uses no-lead solder and acid free flux.
Like hj I also use Mapp gas.