Sink Shutoff Valve - Which Option is Best?

Users who are viewing this thread

KP Texan

Marine Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
San Antonio, TX
A leaking sink shutoff valve is my latest issue in this nightmare guest bath remodel. The tile guys mentioned that the valve would not turn off when they were tearing out the sinks, but that they would turn off the water and change out the valve for me... sounded fair at the time. A few weeks later, I noticed that this valve was dripping very slowly around the compression nut and that they had used teflon tape on the threads, although it was a new valve! I thought, no biggie, I'll just shut the water off and pull the valve, remove the teflon tape, add some oil to the nut/ferrule and then properly tighten it back down. To make a long story short, the valve still shows some signs of moisture at the compression nut after I did this, and it has been tightened enough to crimp the 1/2" copper pipe (rendering it useless for a new ferrule). Anyway, it looks like after I cut off the bad section of pipe and remove the decorative flange, I will only have 1" of copper pipe at most protruding through the drywall. The way I see it, I've got the following options (in order of preference):

1. Clean up 1" stub of pipe, install new ferrule/nut and use same valve (the tile guys left me the new ferrule and nut since they just reused the old ones on the pipe) - Is 1" of pipe enough length to do this? I notice the brasscraft installation instructions say to fully bottom the pipe out in the valve, but is this necessary?

2. Pull that valve and use a push on valve - I don't really trust the push on valves but maybe it's the best option here?

3. Use a sweat on valve - I feel fairly confident doing this, although it is in fairly close proximity to the drywall. I also know it would be a pain to change once the valve needs to be replaced.

4. Solder a coupling and short piece of pipe on, and use a compression valve again - I kind of like this option, but will a 1" coupling+short stub of pipe stick too far out of the wall? This means the stub out would be then be at least 2.5" out of the wall, before putting the valve on. Plus, I don't think the decorative flange will fit over a coupling anyway.

5. Tear into the wall, and solder in a new stub out, and use compression valve again - Possibly the best permanent option, but I do not relish the though of doing this. I just finished a bunch of drywall work elsewhere in this bathroom, and it's far from my favorite thing to do (plus I'm not great at it). On top of that are the inherent risks of setting something on fire inside the wall.

So there you have it. What would you guys do in this scenario? Sorry for the long winded post, but time is at a premium when the water is shut off to the house and I just want to plan ahead. I can buy the components up front for several different options so I can quickly move on to Plan B if needed.

I can't thank you guys enough for your input!

Oh yeah, a photo of the offending valve:

anglestop-needs-replacing.jpg
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,749
Reaction score
4,400
Points
113
Location
IL
Is that a steel pipe? It seems unlikely with a compression valve. If it is steel, I would be thinking of removing the nipple with an internal pipe wrench and screwing in a new brass nipple. If that is copper or brass, I would go with option #1.

The main thing I would say is to switch to a 1/4 turn ball valve. If you currently have a compression connection, then why not stay with that.
Replace the escutcheon.

I am not a pro.
 

KP Texan

Marine Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
San Antonio, TX
It's just tarnished 1/2 copper pipe with most likely a tinge of rust from the chromed steel flange. The valve on there is a new Keeney 1/4 turn valve but, as mentioned, it is using the old nut and ferrule.
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,946
Reaction score
3,460
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Remove the plate behind the valve, and cut the pipe back where it's full size.
Pick up a new compression shutoff and install it.
Why waste time with old parts? Don't be cheap on this.

NO TAPE !!

There is no reason for tape on a compression thread. Those are straight threads that allow the nut to pull the assembly together.
All tape does is make it harder to seal. When your "handyman" put tape on those threads, that's when you should have shown him the door.

Since you are not a plumber, do not solder anything close to that wall. Use a compression fitting. You may oil the threads, but no tape.
 

KP Texan

Marine Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
San Antonio, TX
Remove the plate behind the valve, and cut the pipe back where it's full size.
Pick up a new compression shutoff and install it.
Why waste time with old parts? Don't be cheap on this.

NO TAPE !!

There is no reason for tape on a compression thread. Those are straight threads that allow the nut to pull the assembly together.
All tape does is make it harder to seal. When your "handyman" put tape on those threads, that's when you should have shown him the door.

Since you are not a plumber, do not solder anything close to that wall. Use a compression fitting. You may oil the threads, but no tape.

Yep, I should have been more clear: as soon as I saw the tape, I knew that was a big no, no for a compression fitting and could have been the reason it was leaking. Unfortunately, removing the tape didn't fix it. Guess that's what I get for letting tile guys install a valve!

The valve is brand new though; you think I should get rid of it for another one?
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,599
Reaction score
1,037
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
1. Use a ferrule puller to remove the nut and sleeve.
2. If the copper is really damaged, then cut jut enough off the tubing so the damaged section is INSIDE the new valve
3. Slide the new nut and ferule on and fasten the new valve.
 

KP Texan

Marine Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
San Antonio, TX
1. Use a ferrule puller to remove the nut and sleeve.
2. If the copper is really damaged, then cut jut enough off the tubing so the damaged section is INSIDE the new valve
3. Slide the new nut and ferule on and fasten the new valve.

HJ, that makes sense! I actually bought a ferrule/faucet handle puller yesterday in anticipation of this, so hopefully it has the strength to pull it over that damaged pipe. Leaving that damaged section should give me a little extra length, and I'm assuming as long as the ferrule is on good pipe then it will seal just fine. Only bad thing is that I might not be able to put a new decorative flange on there, but it's hidden under a vanity anyway.
 

JerryR

Active Member
Messages
584
Reaction score
41
Points
28
Location
Florida
You need a compression sleeve puller
I bought aPasco 4661 puller and used it to replace every stop in my 19 year old home. It was a pleasure to use.
gorry_04.jpg


JR
 
Last edited by a moderator:

KP Texan

Marine Engineer
Messages
61
Reaction score
6
Points
8
Location
San Antonio, TX
Thanks for all he replies, but it seems I was mistaken about it leaking after I tightened it. There must have been some residual water on the outside of the fitting, because its dry as a bone now. I even tapped on it and tried to move it back and forth to make sure it was solid, and it still didn't leak. Even though I don't really like the slightly crimped pipe, I'm not going to borrow trouble by messing with this one.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks