Shifting Supply & Return Main Trunks over 3'

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Smunderdog

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Hey all! I'm in the process of having local HVAC experts provide me input & estimates on this but thought I'd throw it out here for discussion as well.

Ranch home with full basement. 8" tall main trunks for both supply & return run across the basement ceiling below the floor joists for the 1st floor so the head space from the basement floor to the bottom of the main trunks is 6'4". They currently run in a straight shot right out of the furnace parallel to the main beam that supports the middle of the house, but are 3' away from the beam and essentially right across the middle of the ceiling of space that I'd like to finish into a bonus room.

I'd like to put 45 degree angle transitions on them near the furnace so I can angle them over closer to the main beam and then 45 degree angle transitions to straighten them back out to continue parallel to the beam. This would allow me to box them in with the beam and open up the ceiling in this bonus room.

I understand that the preference is to keep ductwork as straight as possible and by adding additional turns/bends I increase the resistance, but many of the other DIY scenarios I see posted out on the internet where red flags start flying appear to be asking about adding much more restrictive turns (multiple 90 degree joints etc).

Any thoughts on what the realistic impact (2) 45 angle turns would have on the system?

What additional info would be helpful to know?
 

Smunderdog

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Finally getting ready to DIY this project this weekend with the help of a buddy who is a general contractor. Started disassembling the cold air return run this evening...looks to be a fun project. Bonus is that I'll be able to vacuum out all the ductwork while it is apart - haven't had it cleaned since we moved into this house 10 years ago and have no idea if/when it was cleaned out prior to that...
 

Smunderdog

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Before photo from the middle of the room being finished - facing the furnace:


Dropped all the ductwork, vaccumed it all out and slid can lighting over:



Finished project with back to the furnace. Sealed up the joints as well:
 
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Dana

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Nice job on the foundation-insulation project- looks like 2" polyiso? If it's not too late, it's worth taping the seams of the foil facer with a quality foil tape, and it's also worth installing R13s in the stud bays before closing it all in.

IRC code min for foundtion walls in US zone 5 northern Indiana is R15 continuous, or R13 cavity+ R5 continuous, but R13 cavity + R12 continous is still financially rational in most energy markets, especially as a DIY using cheap "contractor roll" R13s (or R11s). Either kraft facers or unfaced sound-abatement batts would be fine, since with the polyiso on the exterior everything in the stud bay stays above the indoor dew point in winter, for low/no mold hazard.
 

Smunderdog

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Yep - polyiso on the walls and it is already taped with plans on batting the stud spaces once I get the electrical run. I appreciate your contributions to the forum as I definitely read all your posts before jumping into the project!
 
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