Self-rimming Kohler sink help

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by flyboy718, Jun 19, 2010.

  1. flyboy718

    flyboy718 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2006
    Hi,

    I am installing a Kholer self-rimming sink. My vanity is tiled that the sink will sit on top of. Dry fitting the sink, the sink wiggles a little. What could I do to alleviate the wiggling? The directions only say to run a bead of sealant along the outisde filling the void between sink and counter top. I was thinking of maybe rubbing out some 'thin snakes' of plumbers putter and put them all the way around the cutout for the sink to sit on top of and level it up?

    In the middle picture there is a crack, pay no attention to it as I didn't have the sink centered in the cutout...I just put it in real quick for a picture.
     

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  2. krow

    krow Plumber

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    These sinks are designed to sit in the hole with a bead of silicone chaulking holding it in place. Assemble your faucet and drain assembly first and then run a bead of silicone around your opening. Set the sink inside the hole, square it up and let sit for 24 hours.

    The silicone will stop any wiggling
     
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  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Don't even think about using plumbers putty under the lav, that would be a huge mistake.

    Those get caulked in.
    Assemble the faucet, drop it in the hole, hook up the water and p-trap, and when everything is completely done, and only then, caulk the lav to the counter top.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2010
  5. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    A bigger surpise would have been if it DID NOT wiggle. A drop in sink on tile will almost always wiggle. Tthe tile is seldom, if ever, perfect, and often the sink is not either. Either put adhesive caulk on the rim of the sink, center it in the opening, and leave it alone for about 24 hours, the connect it. Or put it in place, connect the sink, then put the caulking around the rim, forcing some of it under the sink. Either way, when the caulk hardens the sink will be solid, and in place, semipermanently.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2010
  6. flyboy718

    flyboy718 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2006
    Great guys! Thanks for the fast reply's, going to tackle it after breakfast. Keep an eye on me, I may need some help with attaching the p-trap and the undercarriage. By the way what is a good brand of White silicone adhesive caulk to use around the sink?
     
  7. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2004
    Occupation:
    Plumber
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    I DO NOT use silicone caulk, it is too "messy". Use DAP tub and tile adhesive caulking.
     
  8. Doherty Plumbing

    Doherty Plumbing Journeyman & Gas Fitter

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2009
    Occupation:
    Red Seal Journeyman Plumber & Licensed Gas Fitter
    Location:
    Penticton, BC
    +1 on that!!! Dap is the answer for those sinks. It actually adheres and basically glues the sink in place where as silicone caulking will fail over time. And it needs to be replaced!

    If the sink has any major gaps between it in and the sink I'd go around the rim of the sink AFTER it's solidly in place and put some silicone in to make it look pleasing to the eye!
     
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