Drop in bathroom sink (Kohler Archer) on laminate countertop

[French_guy]

What is the best way to install a self rimming Kohler sink (Archer K-2356-4-0) on top of an IKEA laminate countertop
I've read 2 options:
-) Put the sink in place, and a bead of silicone caulk all around...Is it really enough to keep it in place?
-) Put a bead of caulk (DAP?) under the rim, then place the sink. Let dry 24h, then silicone all around

I'm thinking option 2 will give a stronger adhesion of the sink...Is it the right approach?

 

[hj]

Either way will be fine.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dj2]

For this particular sink, I would put it on top of the counter. Just make sure the hole has enough bite to support the sink.

 

[Reach4]

1. -) Put the sink in place, and a bead of silicone caulk all around...Is it really enough to keep it in place?
2. -) Put a bead of caulk (DAP?) under the rim, then place the sink. Let dry 24h, then silicone all around

I'm thinking option 2 will give a stronger adhesion of the sink...Is it the right approach?

I don't know what the best way is. I figure that both are right. I am thinking option 1 will give the strongest adhesion, but might be harder to do well. If I did silicone, I would lay down masking tape just outside of the outline. I would apply another layer of masking tape to the edge of the sink. Then I would lift the sink, apply my bead of silicone, and set down inside of my tape. I would wipe off the silicone that flashed out, and then I would remove the tape while the silicone was still very soft. I figure if the sealant did not flash out, I did not use enough. I am not a pro.

The DAP acrylic or latex caulk would be easier to clean up. You can use a wet cloth before it dries.

 

[French_guy]

For this particular sink, I would put it on top of the counter. Just make sure the hole has enough bite to support the sink.

It’s a drop-in sink, so yes it will go on top of the counter
And I cut the opening following the template from the manufacturer…

 

[French_guy]

I don't know what the best way is. I figure that both are right. I am thinking option 1 will give the strongest adhesion, but might be harder to do well. If I did silicone, I would lay down masking tape just outside of the outline. I would apply another layer of masking tape to the edge of the sink. Then I would lift the sink, apply my bead of silicone, and set down inside of my tape. I would wipe off the silicone that flashed out, and then I would remove the tape while the silicone was still very soft. I figure if the sealant did not flash out, I did not use enough. I am not a pro.

The DAP acrylic or latex caulk would be easier to clean up. You can use a wet cloth before it dries.

I wonder if the DAP “Kitchen, Tile and Tub” is not going to be too strong……If for some reasons I need to replace the sinks or the countertop in a few year (who knows…!), it might be very difficult to remove
So maybe just using silicone under the rim might be good enough to secure it on the countertop
Then white acrylic all around to make it look nice

Question though: how the white acrylic will hold in the long term, with water around? Should I use white 100% silicone ?

 

[Dj2]

Use DAP. Silicone is a bear to remove.

 

[French_guy]

Are you saying I should use white acrylic caulk to go around the sink once installed on the countertop?
I know 100% silicone is messy.....but how acrylic is going to hold up against water, mold, stain in the long run?

 

[French_guy]

I understood there are 3 types of sealant: Acrylic, 100% silicone and "Siliconized"
100% silicone is messy, acrylic is not meant for water exposure.....does that mean the best compromise is the siliconized stuff?
Which one should I get then, to (1) install the sink (with a continuous bead under the lip) AND (2) seal it nicely all around, using masking tape....and my finger

 

[French_guy]

Nobody to help me pick the right product?

 

[Terry]

You can uses Silicone, or
LOCTITE® 2 IN 1™ SEAL & BOND TUB & TILE

We install the lav first, making sure it's connected to the drain and holds water. After the lav in installed and usable, we caulk the lav/sink in by putting a bead of caulking around the sink. I prefer the PolySeamseal formula by Locktite that cleans up with water.

If you try caulking first, then yes, you can't touch it again for 24 hours. You're turning a quick job into a two-day job.

 

[French_guy]

So you don't put anything under the lip?
The sink will stay in place only with the bead all around? Don't you have problems to access the back of the sink with the caulk gun by the way?
Is the Polyseamseal the same as the one you mention first (Loctite Seal and Bond)
My countertop is laminate if it's important......

 

[Terry]

In the past, most counters were laminate.
Yes, we always have installed the lavs first, and then caulked. The Loctite used to be polyseamseal, now it's polyseamseal formula under the Locktite brand.

But there are plenty that will work and other brands.

 

[French_guy]

So if I install the sink (without any type of caulk or adhesive under the lip) and caulk around with the Polyseamseal, i have to wait 24 hours before doing anything on the sink like installing the p-trap because there is a risk to move it and then break the seal....Is that correct?
So either way I do that knowing I will have to wait 24 hours for the sealant to cure, or I do like you explained
Is this that one I should get:
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...2699148&lsft=gclid:COWWgvr2i84CFQgpaQodF2gBXw

If I can't find it in my local Lowes, HD or Ace, which one would you recommend? I've seen the Loctite 2 in 1 Seal & Bond Tub and tile as well, but reviews are not good !

Other question: to install the faucet on the sink, instruction says to use plumber putty....But plumber putty's instruction says to not use on plastic parts, and the faucet flange is plastic !!!
Is it still OK though, or should I put a bead of silicone (or other type of caulk) in the groove of that flange?

Thanks

 

[MKS]

Terry said,

We install the lav first, making sure it's connected to the drain and holds water. After the lav in installed and usable, we caulk the lav/sink in by putting a bead of caulking around the sink. I prefer the PolySeamseal formula by Locktite that cleans up with water.

Try the plumbers putty on the faucet, it is just taking up space.
And Just LeDoux it.

 

[French_guy]

"Just LeDoux it".......???

 

[French_guy]

I just pre-positioned the sink on the countertop......It's not perfectly sitting flat, it's "rocking" a little bit (not that much though)
So I guess I will have to put some sealant underneath after all
I'm planning to use DAP Quick Seal Plus Kitchen and Bath sealant....(could not find the Loctite 2 in 1 at Home Depot)
Hoping it will squeeze out enough, then I can smooth it and be done in 1 step.....

 

[MKS]

Just Ledoux it.
It's a positive comment, words from a song.
A piece of a toilet shim may help the rocking.

 

[Terry]

They almost always rock a bit. They don't after you caulk them in. I would not be shimming it.
It's a product made from clay and then fired in a furnace.

 

[French_guy]

OK, so I've finally installed my 2 Kohler sinks.....I've used the DAP Kwik Seal Plus Premium Kitchen and Bath adhesive sealant
Next step is to install the pop-up drains, p-trap.............and shut-off valves (which scares me actually)