Relocating kitchen stub out

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Big2bird

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Long story short, we re arranged kitchen cabs, and bought a deep undermount sink. My stub out ended up here: kitchen counter sink 008 (Medium).jpg
kitchen counter sink 007 (Medium).jpg
So I cut out the 2x1 1/2" SAN T , lowered another one 3", and ran it Horizontally 8" or so, and installed a 1 1/2" sweep to stub it out in a better place between the bowls.
kitchen counter sink 012 (Medium).jpg
So my question is, is this really kosher? Or do I need to move the whole island set up over?
 

Big2bird

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Thank you HJ. Now for my next question.
Is there a way to legally install like a combi wye on the stub out to use a trap for each bowl? I don't think I care for the directional center t deal.
 

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I think I figured it out. If I add a san t above this one, and stack another one on top to the other side, it's low enough to hit the basket. The disposal was the issue being lower. Thanks again. J
 

Jadnashua

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FWIW, that flexible rubber coupling is not allowed inside the house - it should be a reinforced no-hub fitting. Thinner rubber, full metal jacket to keep the pipes aligned.
 

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FWIW, that flexible rubber coupling is not allowed inside the house - it should be a reinforced no-hub fitting. Thinner rubber, full metal jacket to keep the pipes aligned.

If I had known that, I would have used the appropriate fitting.. Since I am done, and it's just an overkilled 2" island vent, that should never see a snake, I am going to let this one go. The pipes are only 1/8" apart, and I used it with dishwashing soap to make a slip coupling.
 

Terry

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UPC would be happy with a fixture cross, or to stub out once and use a disposer kit with one p-trap.

A fixture cross puts the trap arms at the same level as the vent, which makes it correct.
Or stub once, and connect under the sink.

There are a lot of things that hj says he does in Arizona that I can't do with inspections.

sink_dw.jpg
 
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Big2bird

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Terry, could I replace the lower 90* sweep with an 1 1/2" wye, making both stub outs the same heigth, and abandon the top stub?

I understand the wet vent thing, but the only danger would be draining both bowls at the same time.

I could use the top as a C.O., and use the single stub. But I hate the idea of those divided t's.
 

hj

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quote; you now have a wet vent on the lower trap.

Isn't that the idea and purpose of a "wet vent". I would not have done THIS installation that way, but have "stacked" tees for multiple fixtures many, many times, (especially if they had different drain height requirements which a back to back fitting would not accomodate), and they were ALL "inspected" and approved.
 

Big2bird

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quote; you now have a wet vent on the lower trap.

Isn't that the idea and purpose of a "wet vent". I would not have done THIS installation that way, but have "stacked" tees for multiple fixtures many, many times, (especially if they had different drain height requirements which a back to back fitting would not accomodate), and they were ALL "inspected" and approved.

So HJ, the ultimate question. BTW, I already passed inspection, so I seek practicallity. Do you think it is an issue?
What would you have done?
 

Big2bird

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kitchen counter sink 014 (Medium).jpgOkay. I have an idea, so here goes. If I tapped off the vent up high, and ran a 2" across the top, down, and t'd into the bottom trap arm reventing it on the left, would that be legal?
I just hate the idea of crawling under the house and shifting the whole deal over. Thoughts?
 

hj

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What you have is "legal". What you propose to do is "busy work". I have no aversion to the directional tee so I would have left it as it was originally. BUT, if I did "really want" separate openings for each sink, I would have centered the opening and then used a "double Y" with a cleanout in the center opening. You should understand that people pay me for my time, so I do not see any purpose in making the job more difficult just so I can charge more. In addition, no matter HOW it was done, I would not have used a 2" pipe for the horizontal portion.
 
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Terry

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What you have is "legal" in Arizona. (according to hj)
And it "will" work other places. UPC code doesn't like it, but if in fact that has been inspected by "your" local inspector and he liked it, you're done.

I can't do that here in Washington State, but that's a long way from your home. My answers are based on what a code book would say. There are plenty of in the field responses to that that you could get by with, but if you ask me what will work "anywhere", then that's the answer I'm giving. I don't find that it makes very much sense if I'm only giving a solution that a city inspector may like if the the state inspections don't allow it.
 

Big2bird

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What you have is "legal" in Arizona. (according to hj)
And it "will" work other places. UPC code doesn't like it, but if in fact that has been inspected by "your" local inspector and he liked it, you're done.

I can't do that here in Washington State, but that's a long way from your home. My answers are based on what a code book would say. There are plenty of in the field responses to that that you could get by with, but if you ask me what will work "anywhere", then that's the answer I'm giving. I don't find that it makes very much sense if I'm only giving a solution that a city inspector may like if the the state inspections don't allow it.

Terry. I did this work after inspection. I belive it to be legal IRC, but illegal UPC. I am just curious at this point if I revented the lower trap arm, would it then be legal UPC. It's just the sparky in me asking.
 

Terry

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So in other words, the inspector passed off this concept, with the cleanout in the cabinet

sink_dw.jpg


At this point, I would just button things up. Either way it's going to work well enough.

If you vent each trap arm it always works. No matter what city you are in.
 
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