Recommendation for 10" Rough-In

[abright52]

I am currently working on finishing my basement, adding 2x4 walls next to the existing concrete foundation. Due to this, the 12" Rough-In American Standard Toilet that previously had plenty of room behind it, will no longer fit. With the walls and drywall, I am measuring just over 10.5" to the bolts.

What would be recommended for a 10" Rough-In toilet for this bathroom that will only get occasional use?

The only option I see at my local Men.ards is a Mansfield Alto that is currently on-sale for $116. But from what I have read on here....that is not a very good option.

 

[Gary Swart]

One of the Toto toilet models that use the Unifit Adapter. Toto is the only manufacturer that makes an adapter that will allow some of their models to be set at 10", 12", or 14". Terry's Report has them described. There are 10" rough-in toilets available, but your choices of styles is limited. You can not buy Toto toilets in discount stores, but most plumbers can obtain them.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[abright52]

Looks like I have a Toto Gold Dealer about 10 miles from work. I will have to check them out and see what they have for 10". Thanks.

 

[Terry]

If you home center it, then the American Standard Cadet 3 with the 10" tank would work too.
My preference is for the Toto though.

 

[abright52]

Thanks for the alternative....I have a request for quote on a few of the Toto models at my local Toto Dealer. I will look into the Cadet 3, as well. I will have to do a cost-benefit analysis, since this is not the primary toilet.

Thanks again.

 

[Jadnashua]

Unless you need the space/thickness of the 2x4 studwall, you could just put up stringers on the wall and drywall to it, and probably use a standard 12" rough-in.

 

[Nukeman]

I agree with Jim. I also did 2x4 walls in front of the block walls...except on the wall behaind the toilet. It previously used 2x2 furring strips, so I just kept that to avoid changing the rough-in. I filled the space beteen the furring strips with 1.5" worth of XPS foam insulation (R=7.5). You just want to avoid putting the water supply between the insulation and the wall (freezing issues). In that bay, I used 1/2" XPS first, then I strapped the copper line through that and into the block (using tapcons). Then on either side on the pipe, I filled the space with 1" XPS. Directly where the pipe is, I have no insulation between the wall and the inside of the house (to keep the pipe warm).

Your other option is to split the difference and build a 2x3 stud wall. If your measurements are accurate, that should put you at 11.5". This will fit just about all 12" toilets. Most are designed for a 3/4" gap, so they will work at 11.25" rough-in. Some are designed for even a larger gap, so the rough-in can be even smaller.

 

[abright52]

I had considered doing that, but opted to keep it all at 2x4 for ease of drywall installation. I didn't anticipate the limited availability of 10" Rough-In Toilets, though, I just knew that they existed.

I left a 1/4" gap between the wall and the 2x4s and had 2" of Closed Cell Spray Foam sprayed onto the walls (R14 equivalent). Will be running 1/2" PEX homeruns from a Viega MANABLOC Manifold for water supply (as well as replacing the existing combination of old 1/2" Galvanized and Copper running throughout the rest of the house).

 

[Dugfresh]

One thing about the Toto adapter plate is that you will have to anchor it to the concrete floor, and watch out for some models which require the stop valve to be 7" left of center rather than 6". Due to Toto toilets and some other brands, I now rough my water supplies at least 8" off center.

The Soiree and Guinevere can have the water at 6" to the left with a 1/4 turn

 

[Gary Swart]

Lead sleeves work very well for anchoring into concrete as well as other devices. The recommended location of the water supply are just that...recommended. A little less or even a lot more will also work fine.

 

[abright52]

Thanks for all the good advice.

I was considering bringing the water supply out the side of the vanity, since they are side-by-side. That way I should be able to hide my shutoff under the sink. Any reasons that I wouldn't want to do that?

I got a couple of quotes and these are the options that I am considering:

ECO DRAKE TOILET & TANK W/ 10 INCH
ROUGHIN - COTTON
C744EF.10.01
ST743E.01

$371.00

DRAKE TOILET & TANK W/ UNIVERSAL
HEIGHT BOWL & 10 INCH ROUGHIN -
COTTON
C744EF.01
ST743S.01

$371.00

Cadet 3 White High Efficiency Round Toilet

* ADA round front 10" rough toilet combination - tank and bowl
* High efficiency toilet with ultra low consumption meets EPA WaterSense™ criteria
* Features Cadet® flushing system with oversized 3" flush valve and chemical resistant flapper
* Fully glazed 2-1/8" trapway
* Chrome trip lever

$267.30

Cadet 3 White Round Toilet

* ADA round front 10" rough toilet combination - tank and bowl
* Features Cadet(TM); flushing system with oversized 3" flush valve and chemical resistant flapper
* EverClean(TM) surface inhibits the growth of stain and odor-causing bacteria, mold, and mildew
* Fully glazed 2-1/8" trapway
* Chrome trip lever

$263.93

My questions:

1. Is the Toto Drake worth $100 more than the Cadet 3?

2. 1.6GPF or 1.28GPF? I would prefer the 1.28GPF, as long as that doesn't mean I have to flush more than once......as that pretty much defeats the purpose.

Thanks!

 

[Terry]

The 1.28 works plenty good. Most of my customers can't tell a difference.

The Cadet listed above is round,
The Drake listed is elongated.

I think the Drake works a bit nicer, and it's elongated, so you're not comparing apples to apples.
I have an easier time installing the Drakes, they use drier clay, which means less shimming sometimes.
Either is going to work.

Ian replaces the Cadet flapper with a Korky replacement.

 

[abright52]

I would want to stick with round, I would like to keep it as compact as possible.

It seems like the Drake was the same price in any configuration from this dealer. I must have pasted the wrong set, sorry.

Thanks for the info!