Old toilet replacement. Looks less than 10 inch rough in

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by japple650, Dec 29, 2013.

  1. japple650

    japple650 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Michigan
    So I bought a house that was built in the 1940s. I don't believe the toilets have ever been updated. They are both horrible at flushing anything. The one I took pictures of is worst (probably something to do with it having the original flushing mechanisms). I was hoping to replace the toilets and bought a 12 inch rough in from a big box store (I told associate I had super old toilets, he assured me 99% of toilets are 12 inch rough in, thats what I get for not listening to my gut) and now realize I do not have a 12 inch rough in. Heck I dont even think I have a 10 inch rough in. If a 10 inch will fit I am going to go with the toto drake. Can you guys look at these pics and let me know what you think?

    IMG_20131229_115504_031.jpg
    As you can see it appears to be like 8 1/2 to 9 inches rough in.

    2.jpg
    Old 4 bolt.

    4.jpg
    Old Mansfield No 12.

    IMG_20131229_115611_544.jpg
    Etched numbers say 22 Aug 10 1946

    IMG_20131229_115742_329.jpg
    A look from in the basement. From the stud to a little over center of pipe is 10 inches. Don't know if this tells you anything or not.
    Yes there is some old signs of leaking but inspector cleared it.
  2. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,671
    Location:
    IL
    While offset flanges are usually not liked, I suspect there is one that could get you another inch over your 4 inch cast iron pipe without being a clog problem.

    You might use a square to get a better measurement from the center of your bolt to the wall (not the base piece).
  3. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,302
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    I'm thinking you have a 4" pipe going up to the closet flange.
    You can use a repair ring to offset the closet bolts and move the bowl out farther from the wall. You can pick up 1-1/4" by doing that.
    The rough measurement is to the wall behind the tank. We don't worry much about floor molding or the curve of the tile at the floor to wall connection.
    You will need a 10" rough, which is normally about 9-1/4" to the wall behind the tank.

    So using 9.25 minus 1.25 you come up with an 8.0" rough if needed without doing anything to the closet flange, except for moving the bolts out from the wall farther.

    I would not install an offset flange there.

    [​IMG]

    Flange repair ring.
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2013
  4. japple650

    japple650 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Michigan
    When you say "use a repair ring" do you mean one of these or one of these?

    I am pretty darn ignorant with toilets and everything that goes with them so how can either of these products move my bolts out farther?
    I don't understand how that would work.
    Thanks!
  5. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,269
    Location:
    New England
    I think you'd probably be better off with the second one, but wait for a pro to confirm. You'd need to seal around that to the old toilet flange, then a wax ring would seal the toilet to the repair ring.
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