Need a little help with pump.

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by WANNABE, Jun 19, 2013.

  1. WANNABE

    WANNABE New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    COLORADO
    I need a little help here. First off, a description of what I have.

    25 foot deep well
    4" casing
    Good volume
    Utilitech 1/2 hp POS jet pump.

    Questions

    My Goulds jet pump housing wore out after 30 years. (They don't make them like they used to) :)

    Only pump I could get on the weekend was a POS utilitech from lowes. Well, this pump cant keep up.

    I decided since the last pump failed, and sprayed water all over my crawlspace, and im tired of listening to the pump that I would install a submersible pump instead.

    My question is, how far off the bottom should I be with the pump?
    If the pump is 10 GPM and im going from 1-1/4 pipe to 3/4 to the tank, will I need to throttle the pump back? 1/2 horse 115v pump.
    Thanks for the help.
  2. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,426
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    If you have plenty of water in the well you can leave the motor a couple of feet off bottom. Shouldn't need to throttle anything. Tank probably has 1" pipe so I wouldn't go down to 3/4".
  3. WANNABE

    WANNABE New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    COLORADO
    Thank you. After playing around on here, Im thinking of putting in a CSV. Seems to make more sense to always have one. Any reason I shouldn't?
  4. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,426
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    A CSV works great with a ½ HP, 10 GPM pump in a shallow well. If you don’t want good constant pressure, the pump, tank, and switch to last longer, to be able to use a smaller pressure tank, and to eliminate pump cycling and water hammer, then I wouldn’t use a CSV.
  5. WANNABE

    WANNABE New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    COLORADO
    Just had a great chat with Karen over there. Im putting one in!!!!

    Thanks for your help.
  6. WANNABE

    WANNABE New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    COLORADO
    Got another question here guys. Torque arrestor?? This was a 6inch 25' deep well. Something happened years ago and the well just sucked up mud. Well guy said screen failed. Anyway, he re-lined it with 4 inch pvc. If I use a 4" pump, do I need a torque arrestor? Im using 1-1/4 pvc drop pipe. Read to many horror stories about stuck pumps.

    Will a 4inch pump stay cool in a 4inch well?
  7. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,426
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    You don't need a torque arrestor, especially on such a shallow well. Actually a pump will run cooler in 4" than in 6" casing. But it is best to set the pump above the well screen if there is one.
  8. WANNABE

    WANNABE New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    COLORADO
    What If I switch too 1" 200 psi Poly? I know the well has a screen that I think is 3 feet . I have water at 10. Draw down with the pos pump is 3 feet with 2 spigots open. I already pull sand, but worried about setting to shallow.
  9. WANNABE

    WANNABE New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    COLORADO
    And is Teflon tape suitable on all joints?
  10. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,426
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    160# poly is plenty. Teflon tape is good. if you have a 3' screen in the bottom of the well, set the pump 3' off the bottom.
  11. WANNABE

    WANNABE New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    COLORADO
    Valveman, thanks for the help. Since tomorrow is my day to do this, id like to layout what im doing for your review. Feel free to suggest anything.

    First, the well has always pulled up sand. I have a cartridge filter after the tank and before the softener. I am replacing a JO5N jet pump with a 10gpm submersible that has a internal check valve. Im installing a inline check valve just above the pump. Using all stainless steel fittings, and attaching to 200 psi poly 1" pipe up to the pitless adaptor. Not using a torque arrestor, and contemplating no using the cable guard, and just zip tying every 3 or 4 feet. Im really not sure of the screen in the well, so I am pondering setting the pump inlet to the depth the foot valve is now. I will chlorinate afterwards per instructions here. I guess I am a little concerned about the new pump being a corvette compared to a Datsun and stirring up the sand even more, and having that problem. Any suggestions there would be great. Im going to trench above the horizontal waterline, down about a foot or so and run the well cable through pvc pipe as a sleeve up to the house. (10 feet). I will tie safety line to the pump as well. From the pitless to the house is 1-1/4 poly. I plan on just reducing that to 3/4 copper, as that's whats connecting the tank now. I have already added a dedicated 15amp breaker, and ran the line to a 15 amp switch. The pressure switch will sit on a 1/4" nipple 4" above the tee and the gauge will be right next to it. (2 feet from the tank) I feel that im pretty versed in ability to do all the work, I would just like the experience here as guidance that im doing it right. I suppose if I do stir up sand with this pump, I can close the ball valve for now until I install a CSV. Lawn sprinkler system is next if this all works out. It would be easier to just install another jet pump, but im tired of listening to it under the house, and don't need another mess if it fails. Also need more efficiency to add lawn sprinklers later. Thanks again for your help.
  12. WANNABE

    WANNABE New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    COLORADO
    Well, the first thing I should have checked was the last thing I checked. The well guy that installed the 4" liner, installed the pitless over the 4 inch liner. No way I can get a 4" inch pump in the hole.
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