If you choose to chip it out, I normally make the two cuts about an inch a part, and then use a flat screw screw driver flat to seperate the pipe from the hub, just work your way around the hub. Or if you have the Ram Bit handy, that works too. hj sometimes mentions putting a hoseclamp around the hub to keep it from breaking out when using the screwdriver method.
If you have a 2x10 floor joist, you will have to leave 2" on the bottom and 2" on the top.
You may also want to consider running the line for the toilet below the floor joist and boxing the ceiling.
Id you move the toilet using fittings, it would be a 90 and a 45 to make up the 135 degree of change needed.
Or you can replace the plumbing and come up in the same joist location as the new toilet.
You can have 135 degree of change.
It's a 3" line for just a few feet before it drops.
I'm more concerned with the integrity of your structure.
You could also open up the wall below and move the pipe in-line with what you have above, "maybe".
You can't notch the bottom of a floor joist. The floor will collapse.
You can have 135 degree of change.
It's a 3" line for just a few feet before it drops.
I'm more concerned with the integrity of your structure.
You could also open up the wall below and move the pipe in-line with what you have above, "maybe".
You can't notch the bottom of a floor joist. The floor will collapse.
This is awkward, but...
It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.
If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.