How to tell if my shower drain needs replaced?

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Nick Evans

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We are remodeling our bathroom, and right now I'm in the midst of re-doing the shower. I had a guy come give me an estimate for cultured marble panels, and he mentioned that our shower drain needed replaced. The previous shower was tile, and it had cracked and leaked through and caused rot on some of the framing, such as on the curb, but there was no pipe/drain leakage that I am aware of, or that we can see from below (no water damaged ceiling in the room below the shower).
When he mentioned the drain needed replaced, he did indicate that I could potentially replace just 2/3 parts of the drain. I am trying to understand why the drain needs replaced, and what specifically needs replaced. Below are some pictures of what's left after I broke out the cement pan.

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FYOA3AC.jpg


If this is a 3 piece drain,and if only 2 parts need replaced, can anyone either share how that disassembles, or point me at some good info on it? He indicated that to do all 3 parts would mean removing the sub-floor and cutting the cast iron pipe, then binding in new pipe and drain. I realize that the residual cement under the piece of drain would obviously have to go, but is that the biggest reason this needs replaced? Are there specific replacement parts I would need to use since I'm dealing with a cast iron pipe?

Essentially I'm trying to figure out what I truly need to do for this shower to be ready to start putting everything else in (pan, shower panels etc). I appreciate anyone's input on what to do with regards to the drain.
 

Jadnashua

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A typical shower receptor uses a totally different drain assembly than a conventional clamping drain. Your clamping drain has weep holes beneath the top surface that allow moisture that got through the tile down to the liner to drain out. It would also allow moisture to get underneath your receptor. Then, that drain also isn't designed to seal to a receptor.

Somebody may make a conversion drain for this, but I've not seen one. Worth looking, but probably not relevant. The typical height of a receptor verses a clamping drain are very likely quite different, so that would be a major issue as well.
 

Nick Evans

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I appreciate your response, and have a couple questions on it. You indicate that the type of drain I currently have is a 'clamping drain' correct? Would I want to replace what I have with another clamping drain? You also talked about converting between receptor and clamping drain, and I'm not totally clear on what that means with regards to what I'm trying to do. Do I have a 'Clamping drain' but want to instead convert to a 'receptor' or vice versa?
 

Cacher_Chick

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Yes. You have not mentioned what is below, but my preference would be to replace the entire drain and trap now as part of the job. A beautiful shower with a bad drain makes it into nothing more than a storage closet.
 

Jadnashua

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Most shower receptors use either a compression seal, or may have their own proprietary design...they are generally not compatible with a conventional clamping drain which uses weep holes underneath and seals to a thin waterproofing membrane between two layers of deck mud.

You need to read the installation instructions on the shower receptor you want to install. Without specific model number and maker, everything else is a guess.
 

Nick Evans

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Ok, so I'm new to the whole thing, so bear with me.
If I am understanding the question correctly, the 'receptor' is the shower base. We're doing a cultured marble shower and base/receptor.
I'm reaching out to the vendor that we're hiring for the shower, to find out what type of receptor specifically would be used.

You have not mentioned what is below, but my preference would be to replace the entire drain and trap now as part of the job.
@cacher_chick - The current trap is cast iron I think (haven't taken up the sub floor to see). So you'd replace the entire drain and trap?

If I'm totally off base on what I am asking/trying to ask, please correct me. I'm not sure the right things to ask, so I might sound off base, but I appreciate your guys help.
 

Terry

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Most of the marble bases use a drain different than that. What you have now is a clamping drain for a mudset shower pan. The vinyl clamps between the two parts.
Regards, that old thing it history. It's going to be gone.
 

Nick Evans

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Most of the marble bases use a drain different than that. What you have now is a clamping drain for a mudset shower pan. The vinyl clamps between the two parts.
Regards, that old thing it history. It's going to be gone.

Do Marble bases have a standard type of drain that they need, or are there a variety depending on the base itself?
 

Nick Evans

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I got a response from the guys we got the quote from.
They said "We put a composite pan underneath the shower floor."
They sent me this image of the type of drain they use:
eij3h4E.jpg


I'm still not clear enough on what questions I should be asking to know if the above information is sufficient to know what I should install? What type of '3 piece drain' is shown above? I figure if that's what they would install in a full remodel to work with their Marble slabs, then that is what I should look to install. If that is too presumptions feel free to correct me.
 

Nick Evans

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They told me we would want to put in cement(?) on the subfloor to create the appropriate slope. I'm feeling like either they are confused or I am (and it's easy to believe it's me!)
 

Nick Evans

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Wow, thanks for helping me get to the point of at least knowing what's going in. So mudset shower with marble panels on the walls and ceiling... is that ok? I imagine if that's how they do all their showers it is, but knowing nothing, I figure I should ask.

If I'm going to replace the drain & trap I've got in currently for one like the one I posted, would you typically just cut the subfloor out with a skill-saw?
 

Terry

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Normally I at least replace the drain. Sometimes do the p-trap too.
Either a skill saw or sawzall if you accessing those parts.
 

Gary Swart

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My recommendation is for you to let the installers do the prep work from start to finish. If there should be a problem later, they can't use your work as an excuse for the problem. Get the whole job description in writing. Trying not of offend you, but the last thing pros want is a homeowner getting involved with their work.
 
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