Zane Bridgers
Member
Thanks so much Valveman! The pitless adapter has arrived so I'm planning to drop the pump this week.
I've read a few more of your posts - sounds like no teflon or pipe dope on stainless to pvc, just crank til it pops a few times. No check valves other than that inside the pump.
I got a nice ratcheting crimp tool with interchangeable dies. I'm curious which you would recommend. There's a few insulated dies, and then non-insulated terminal, open barrel, and open barrel & D-Sub v3.5, I was planning to just use non-insulated terminal, and then solder after crimping and before shrink wrap.
To test the pump and motor before dropping it, I planned to submerge it in a big tote tank and power it on via the controller for just a second or two, Not sure if there is a more rigorous test.
I wanted to grease the splines because I had read about sand potentially getting in them. All I can find locally in terms of food grade grease is called faucet grease and is supposed to be high heat and waterproof. Since the splines are right at the water intake I'd prefer to use something food grade or nothing.
I got a prefab underground concrete well house delivered today where the casing comes up inside and there's a manhole cover on top to service the pump. I planned to put the pitless up about a foot off the floor if that sounds about right. Then drill a second hole 1' above that for the well wire. Are there any tricks to lining up the pitless and getting it to engage? I figure someone can look through the adapter to figure out when it's at the right level and then a bunch of wiggling/trial and error to get it to engage. I planned to run a short section of cable from around the pitless to the well seal as a backup, but assume this is probably never done by pros.
Once everything is in place, is there any problem with just flipping the breaker to test it out before plumbing in the tank/csv and pressure switch?
I'm excited to finally make this happen. I'll post up some photos of the rig. I'm confident it will do the job.
I've read a few more of your posts - sounds like no teflon or pipe dope on stainless to pvc, just crank til it pops a few times. No check valves other than that inside the pump.
I got a nice ratcheting crimp tool with interchangeable dies. I'm curious which you would recommend. There's a few insulated dies, and then non-insulated terminal, open barrel, and open barrel & D-Sub v3.5, I was planning to just use non-insulated terminal, and then solder after crimping and before shrink wrap.
To test the pump and motor before dropping it, I planned to submerge it in a big tote tank and power it on via the controller for just a second or two, Not sure if there is a more rigorous test.
I wanted to grease the splines because I had read about sand potentially getting in them. All I can find locally in terms of food grade grease is called faucet grease and is supposed to be high heat and waterproof. Since the splines are right at the water intake I'd prefer to use something food grade or nothing.
I got a prefab underground concrete well house delivered today where the casing comes up inside and there's a manhole cover on top to service the pump. I planned to put the pitless up about a foot off the floor if that sounds about right. Then drill a second hole 1' above that for the well wire. Are there any tricks to lining up the pitless and getting it to engage? I figure someone can look through the adapter to figure out when it's at the right level and then a bunch of wiggling/trial and error to get it to engage. I planned to run a short section of cable from around the pitless to the well seal as a backup, but assume this is probably never done by pros.
Once everything is in place, is there any problem with just flipping the breaker to test it out before plumbing in the tank/csv and pressure switch?
I'm excited to finally make this happen. I'll post up some photos of the rig. I'm confident it will do the job.
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