Help installing toilet flange

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by lordmoosh, Mar 31, 2013.

  1. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

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    One would hope that the stack is supported, but I would never take that for granted. A couple of riser clamps blocked in from above is all that it takes.

    If I am understanding your question about the flange, the pipe should bottom out (or be very close to it) in the hub when the cement is applied. If that is the outside fit flange, the riser should come up to about 1/8" from flush with the finished floor.
     
  2. lordmoosh

    lordmoosh Member

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    Would you put a cast iron wye or a pvc wye in between the cast iron thats there right now?
     
  3. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

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    I would stay with the cast iron. If anything shifts a bit during the next 20 years, I would not want the load of the stack placed on a piece of PVC.
     
  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    It looks like no-hub cast iron in there now. If you replace santee on the stack, stay with no-hub.
     
  5. lordmoosh

    lordmoosh Member

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    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2016
  6. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    The lav, should have had a vent going through the roof.
    Otherwise it would be an illegal S trap.

    Bringing the lav waste back to a side outlet santee would still not vent it.

    Reusing the no-hub clamps should be fine.

    Would I remove the santee?
    Nope!
    I still think there is a vent on the lav above the existing p-trap connection until proven wrong.
    One way to see, is to run water down the sink/lav and see if the trap siphons.
     
  7. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

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    We can only believe what you have told us, which is that the sink is not vented.

    I would not believe Terry's simple test of running some water into the lavatory because of the potentially low flow of the sink's faucet. You would need to drain a full sink or dump a bucket of water into it, and then check to see if the the trap has siphoned.

    If there is not a vent, it might be one of those times that an AAV will have to make do.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2013
  8. lordmoosh

    lordmoosh Member

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    Gotcha. One question... you said you would not remove the santee. Are you saying this because your earlier suggestion to add the wye after the elbow is ok? Thanks.
     
  9. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

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    The wye downstream of the bend would be correct IF the lav is properly vented. Either way requires the lav to be vented.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2013
  10. lordmoosh

    lordmoosh Member

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    Ok thank you.
     
  11. lordmoosh

    lordmoosh Member

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    Thanks I will try this test. Do I basically open the trap and see if its not full of water after draining the full sink?
     
  12. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

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    Yes. If the sink drain is without a stopper, you should me able to shine a light down the trap and see if it is full.
     
  13. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    When the waste exits the P-trap of the sink, and before it starts to go down, there must be a pipe coming off that arm within 42" for the size pipe you are using that goes up to act as the vent. Since it looks like the sink's drain just goes straight down in the wall, there MUST be a vent line going straight up from where it transitions from horizontal to vertical off the trap arm behind the P-trap, or it is an S-trap. Depending on the flow, you may or may not be able to siphon the trap in the sink, so the test is not definitive.
     
  14. lordmoosh

    lordmoosh Member

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    Thank you.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2016
  15. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    Some places allow an AAV, some don't. Having one is better than an S-trap. They can and do fail eventually, so they must be placed where they can be accessed. You want is as high in the cabinet as you can reasonably get it and still unscrew it to replace it.
     
  16. lordmoosh

    lordmoosh Member

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    If I go with an AAV in the cabinet, does it make any difference whether I put a wye at the main stack or after the toilet elbow? Thanks.
     
  17. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    You don't really want to keep it into the toilet fitting, but I don't think it really matters which other choice you make once you've got the sink vented.
     
  18. lordmoosh

    lordmoosh Member

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    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2016
  19. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

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    I'm still wondering why you don't just vent the sink and cut the sink drain wye into the toilet waste arm, downstream of the closet bend?
     
  20. lordmoosh

    lordmoosh Member

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    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2016
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