help id'ing this part

[Fletch101e]

Hello,
I have noticed for the past few days floor behind the toilet is wet and dirty. Noticed a slight wetness before but now it's getting noticeable. Today when I was getting ready for work I noticed it is dripping right where the water line enters the toilet via some round plastic piece.

What is this piece called and is it easy to replace? Pretty sure this toliet is called a cadet and the house was made in Nov, 1980 if that helps.

Eventually I will need a new toliet as the bowl leans agaist the wall but for now would like to keep it going a while longer.

When I do go with a new toilet , aprox would should it cost me to get it installed?

Thank you..

 

[Terry]

It's either a supply line nut, or the fill valve leaking. You can pick up a tank rebuild kit too. That would replace the parts in the tank for you. That water on the floor isn't doing your floor any good.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

The first thing to try is to tighten the nut (white in picture) from the supply line to the fill valve bottom. If that does not fix it, replace the flexible supply line and maybe the fill valve.

At bottom of the picture is the angle stop. Those can get flaws. Replace it with a 1/4 turn ball valve type if you are pulling the flexible supply line out unless the existing valve operates very well. Replacing the fill valve is also a good DIY job.

Toilet installation costs vary. Maybe $200. Maybe more. If you are in an area where people pay to park, expect to pay more than if you are in a less urban area. Ask around your area for recommendations.

I am not a pro. I do DYI slowly.

 

[Fletch101e]

It's either a supply line nut, or the fill valve leaking. You can pick up a tank rebuild kit too. That would replace the parts in the tank for you. That water on the floor isn't doing your floor any good.

Thanks..I am about to head to lowes to see if I can find the parts.....

 

[WJcandee]

GET THE 528MPK FILL VALVE AT LOWES

 

[Fletch101e]

GET THE 528MPK FILL VALVE AT LOWES

Well I already came back with fluidmaster one , but have yet to install it as iam still at work. Is that much difference between the 2? When I get home, I will try just replacing the line first... thanks.

 

[Jadnashua]

The Korky fill valve suggested is quieter when running, and is adjustable to get the tank/bowl fill volume balanced so that the tank and the bowl both get full at the same time. If it directs too much water to the bowl, it will still work, but waste water with each flush since that extra just goes down the drain. If the tank gets full before the bowl, it won't flush properly, and you may end up flushing twice - the first time adds enough water to the bowl so that the next time it actually can flush! If you're lucky, the FLuidmaster valve has the balance required to make everything work without wasting water. The manufacturer uses customized fill valves to make sure both the bowl and tank get filled properly on the first try...aftermarket ones may not unless they are adjustable (they all can adjust the tank level, but you may also need to adjust the balance).

 

[hj]

I never use the Korky, always the Fluidmaster and have for decades.

 

[Fletch101e]

I never use the Korky, always the Fluidmaster and have for decades.

Ok it turns out I don't need the fluidmaster/korky part. The fill line stopped that leak.though it is too long.
But I have another leak..the bolt holding the tank is rusted out and leaking. About to get another bolt and see if lowes will exchange the fill line for a shorter one. I am going to see if I can just change out that one bolt and see if I can get by till I can get a new toliet...thanks.

 

[Reach4]

You want toilet tank bolts. You should be able to get them with new matching .rubber washers as a kit.

 

[WJcandee]

Get a decent tank-to-bowl set, one with 2 of everything per bolt. Mount as follows: bolt head and rubber washer in the tank, then metal washer and nut on the outside of the tank. Make a nice seal there. Then use the other nut and washer(s) to attach the tank to the bowl, so rubber washer (if any), metal washer and nut under the bowl.

 

[Fletch101e]

Get a decent tank-to-bowl set, one with 2 of everything per bolt. Mount as follows: bolt head and rubber washer in the tank, then metal washer and nut on the outside of the tank. Make a nice seal there. Then use the other nut and washer(s) to attach the tank to the bowl, so rubber washer (if any), metal washer and nut under the bowl.

I got the kit...it was serious pain as everything had rusted tight, but I eventually got it. I did use the fluidmaster afterall as it started leaking after I put everything back together. I did go ahead and do the other bolt as it was on the way out as well

What I don't like is the fact those bolts will just rust all over again. Do they make anything marine grade that will hold up to the water? I always wondered why the bowl set against the wall and now I know..those little bolts and rubber washers are the only thing holding it up. Surely they make better toilets that are better made? I don't remember my parents toilets ever having any kind of issues like this.

Thanks for all the help today everyone. I think I am good for now but this aftermarket stuff doesn't look quality but I know zero about this stuff so maybe that is just the way things are.

 

[WJcandee]

Okay...when you're in the mood to redo it....

If you get a good BRASS tank-to-bowl set, it's not going to rust out.

One reason to double-nut, in the manner that I describe above, is that you start out with the bolts perfectly-perpendicular to the tank, which means that when you attach the tank to the bowl, the force will be directly-down. It can make a difference in that you won't have that bolt try to be at a little bit of an angle when you are putting it together.

That tank SHOULD not rest against the wall. The toilet actually sits on that rubber donut over the flush valve. You have to compress that donut quite a bit to get the tank to stand firm and tall and not slouch. What you don't want to do is tighten so much that the porcelain of the tank touches the porcelain of the bowl, because if you then tighten further you will crack the porcelain. But what you do want to do is to tighten the tank-to-bowl bolts bit-by-bit, alternating side to side so you don't pull down a bunch on one and then on the other, just bit-by-bit, back and forth, until it's either really, really hard to tighten or the porcelain is about to touch. At that point, you should have a nice, firm, straight-up-and-down tank. If it starts to tilt when you are tightening, loosen some until it's vertical and then tighten again. (That's when the double-nutting is very helpful.) You are going to compress that donut so that the tank sits firmly on it, held against it by your bolts.

Here's a decent brass bolt set, as an example: http://www.grainger.com/product/KISSLER-CO-HD-Tank-To-Bowl-Set-14U360?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP

Again, the proper order is (and lots of handy-hacks do this wrong, so follow along): Bolt head and rubber washer inside tank; metal washer and nut outside tank. Then, on the underside of the bowl, you install second rubber washer, second metal washer, second nut, which you then tighten to compress the rubber donut.

 

[Reach4]

On at least some such 2-piece toilets, there are 3 points of contact between the big porcelain pieces when the bolts are properly tightened. Because the porcelain is not elastic, it is important to not over-tighten. But you should not be able to slide a piece of paper between the contact points.

If your tank wiggles, with respect to the base, you should gently tighten just until it does not wiggle.

Get the instructions for *your* toilet to make sure of how yours should be tightened.

 

[Jadnashua]

Well, I like to use a piece of paper as a feeler gauge to decide when to stop tightening! Stick one in underneath each contact point, and stop tightening (you must do it evenly, side-to-side) when you start to feel some resistance to pulling the paper out. Someone who does this every day probably can do it by feel alone. Porcelain is not particularly elastic, so you do need to understand when to stop!