DIYorBust
Active Member
When I went to replace a faucet yesterday, I saw it had chrome copper faucet risers, and I liked the idea of not having to worry about hose bursts. Normally I like to change the braided ones every 5 years, but with many in different locations, it could save some trouble to avoid this.
Since I had some extra time on my hands, I decided to try replacing them with new chrome copper risers. But when I went to install, it felt like the laws of physics had changed. I've used many compression fittings before. But these kept leaking at both the angle stop and at the ball on top.
Here's what I did:
-cut to exact size with tube cutter
-Bend tube to line up ball perfectly straight with faucet connector.
-Tighten coupling nut to seal joint
-Connect ferrule side to angle stop
-tighten compression nut
So now I turned on the water, and observed small leaks at both ends. I tightened a little more expecting to seal the leaks, but it merely slowed them even as I tightened beyond my usual comfort point for a small compression joint. Thinking I got it wrong, I took the whole thing apart and remade it with another new riser. Same thing happened.
Finally I just tightened both nuts like crazy. I'm sure the tube is crushed at the ferrule end, and the coupling nut at the ball end is almost maxed out on the threads. This stopped the leak, and it's been dry for 24 hours, but it didn't feel right, and wasn't quick at all. Online tips suggested applying dope to the compression surfaces. Is that the way it's done? Are you supposed to sand off the chrome at the ends or something? What's the deal?
Thanks!
DIYorBust
Since I had some extra time on my hands, I decided to try replacing them with new chrome copper risers. But when I went to install, it felt like the laws of physics had changed. I've used many compression fittings before. But these kept leaking at both the angle stop and at the ball on top.
Here's what I did:
-cut to exact size with tube cutter
-Bend tube to line up ball perfectly straight with faucet connector.
-Tighten coupling nut to seal joint
-Connect ferrule side to angle stop
-tighten compression nut
So now I turned on the water, and observed small leaks at both ends. I tightened a little more expecting to seal the leaks, but it merely slowed them even as I tightened beyond my usual comfort point for a small compression joint. Thinking I got it wrong, I took the whole thing apart and remade it with another new riser. Same thing happened.
Finally I just tightened both nuts like crazy. I'm sure the tube is crushed at the ferrule end, and the coupling nut at the ball end is almost maxed out on the threads. This stopped the leak, and it's been dry for 24 hours, but it didn't feel right, and wasn't quick at all. Online tips suggested applying dope to the compression surfaces. Is that the way it's done? Are you supposed to sand off the chrome at the ends or something? What's the deal?
Thanks!
DIYorBust