Dry fitting 3" PVC

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I'm removing any burrs from cut ends and using PVC cleaner and can't get fittings fully on for a dry fit. Any tips appreciated.
 

Terry

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They never will. They only go together when the solvent glue is applied, and you have just one shot at it.
Glue on the pipe, and glue on the hub.
It's an interference fit.
 
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They never will. They only go together when the solvent glue is applied, and you have just one shot at it.
Glue on the pipe, and glue on the hub.
It's an interference fit.

TY. I soft of found that out the hard way when driving it on didn't work too well. Anyway, working in a wide but 14" tall cavity I glued a wye onto 3" PVC that will be a toilet waste line and it's short of the stop by 3/8". I used plenty of fresh glue but couldn't get in there to really lean on it. Should that be good enough?
 

Sluggo

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Since each diameter of PVC fitting has a standard insertion depth, for critical locations where I don't have much/any leeway, what I usually do is mark that depth on the pipe end I am going to insert with a piece of masking tape. Then I assemble pieces for a dry fit but don't try to force the joint together. Because of the tape, I can see the amount of distance I have to go for the pipe to be fully seated and can compensate for this when I make my cut. Then I put that joint together and move on to the next one.
 
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I'm working with 3 sch. 40 PVC sizes, 1 1/2", 2" and 3" in places that I can't always access easily. The 2 smaller sizes haven't been much of a problem. The 3" has been a bear to assemble even with plenty of fresh glue. I'm using purple colored cleaner and run it on pipes a bit past where full insertion would be with varying results. The 3" female fittings seem to measure 1 1/2" deep and I'm wondering at what point short of that should I be concerned?
 
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With a chamfer on the pipe ends, they press into fittings much easier and the job is finishing up nicer then it started. Highly recommended.
 
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