Does this configuration work for a laundry sink and washer box

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by logan, Nov 14, 2010.

  1. logan

    logan New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Hi guys, I'm a bit of a newbie to this so forgive me if this has already been asked. I've researched what the proper venting for a laundry sink and washer box should look like (including Terry's picture) and I think that I have it right. I'm wondering if anyone would be able to take a look at my pictures and let me know if it's correct or what I would need to change.

    Forgot to mention the pipe at the top is the vent pipe (venting out to the roof) and I've placed the P trap for the washing machine 7 inches below the P trap for the laundry sink.

    Thanks in advance, I appreciate the help.
    Thanks
    Fernando

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 14, 2010
  2. dlarrivee

    dlarrivee New Member

    Messages:
    1,172
    Location:
    Canada
    How do you plan on securing those pex stub outs for the sink?
  3. logan

    logan New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    To be honest, I hadn't though that far ahead. Since I am going to insulate the wall with spray foam and then Roxul, I thought that might be enough to keep them from flopping around. Additionally, I could put in some extra bracing in the bottom of the cabinet to secure them further.
  4. dlarrivee

    dlarrivee New Member

    Messages:
    1,172
    Location:
    Canada
    I would go out of my way to space the framing 1/2" or more from the block wall if I were spraying foam on the wall. Then you get a thermal break behind each stud.

    I would also be using a drop ear elbow for each of those stub outs.

    Insulation isn't meant to support your plumbing...
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2010
  5. logan

    logan New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Thanks for the suggestion. I've actually pulled the framing off all the walls a little over an 1 inch since the spray foam will be applied at a 2 inch thickness for the thermal break. I wanted to make sure that the spray foam guys could hit each inch of the wall behind the framing. Does the venting look ok?
  6. dlarrivee

    dlarrivee New Member

    Messages:
    1,172
    Location:
    Canada
    It looks okay to me but I spray foam for a living, I'm no plumber. :D
  7. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,753
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    The waste line should be 2".
    The p-trap in the wall should be a solvent weld p-trap, not a swivel.
    The vents can be 1.5", and the trap arm for the sink. The washer p-trap should be 2"

    For the others, PEX is normally run with very few fittings. PEX bends, and sometimes you can install with just the ends, and no fittings in between.

    Plumbers don't like shark bites as an every fitting replacement. If you're running copper and PEX, use those fittings, either the proper brand of fitting for the PEX, or for copper fittings that are soldered.
    A shark bite can be used in a pinch, but shouldn't be considered for general use.
  8. logan

    logan New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    I post a pic of the spray when they're done then :)
  9. logan

    logan New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Thanks Terry. Unfortunately I'm tying into an existing 1 1/2" line so upgrading to a 2" line would mean cutting into the stack to run a new 2" line. If I leave an access opening for the washer P trap would that be good enough in case there was an issue in the future or should I just cut the pipe and do it over with a solvent weld P trap?

    I was worried about the pex kinking in the wall after it was covered so I opted for the elbows. I was trying to stay away from sweating a copper to pex adapter but it looks like that's what I should do.

    Otherwise is the venting ok for both fixtures?
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2010
  10. dlarrivee

    dlarrivee New Member

    Messages:
    1,172
    Location:
    Canada
    I would go through the trouble to tie 2" into the stack, the 2" washer standpipe/trap is a really good idea.
  11. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,753
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    An inspector wouldn't pass the 1.5"
    Change it at the stack.
    The venting is fine for Canada.
  12. Jerome2877

    Jerome2877 In the Trades

    Messages:
    397
    Location:
    BC
    Canadian minimum code allows 1.5" however I agree that 2" is better and if possible why not do it.
  13. christoff

    christoff New Member

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Toronto Canada
    are you allowed to use a san tee on it's back ?
  14. logan

    logan New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Thanks guys, I'll upgrade the waste line to 2"
  15. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,753
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    Not in Seattle. They would require a combo or wye fitting. But I don't know about Canada.
  16. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,230
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    A code is a "minimum" standard, which means it SHOULD work, but NOT always the best option. The drain should be 2" and it wll NEVER be easier or cheaper to do it than NOW. You actually did it backwards. The normal way would be to use a 2" drain and 1 1/2" vents, not 1 1/2" drain and 2" venting.
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2010
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