Controller replacement for 230v 1.5HP well pump?

[mudfish]

I gotta get a new pump controller for a 230v 1.5HP well pump and reading the posts here it is a good place to get help. i'm a newb on wells.

The well has worked good for 25yrs. But now the controller makes a popping sound and won't fill the 80gal(20gal water) tank. The breaker in the panel box was not tripped. I switched the breaker off then on in the panel box and a popping sound from the controller began so i shut it off quick.

In the controller box there is a scorch mark at a second capacitor(?) and the spade connection burned/melted completely, above the red wire from the pump in photo. I looked in the pressure switch on the tank and pushed the contacts open and close, no corrosion.

It is a 6" steel pipe to 390ft deep. Red Jacket controller #52808, for a Grizzly pump model# 150CNI-12G18 submersible 1.5hp 230v single-phase pump. On the driller's report from 1998 the static water level is 307ft down. 14gal/min with 10ft drawdown after an hour. (I called the driller for a fix but he moved a hundred miles away.)

I'd appreciate ideas for a good replacement control box to buy? And what i should look out for installing it.

 

[Reach4]

That thing above your yellow arrowhead is the run capacitor. You could take that out of the circuit, and I expect a good pump to still start and run. You will want to find if you need a "deluxe" or regular. With the deluxe, the pressure switch controls a relay in the box, and the relay controls the power to the pump. On second thought, I am thinking your pump may be bad.

If you replace the pump, and this pump is for a house and some occasional yard watering, you might want to review your pump situation. A 10 gpm 1.5 hp could be a better choice.


I could be wrong, but I am thinking that your existing box is not deluxe, so if you check the current thru one of the pressure switch lines, you will see on the order of 10 amps.

I am not a pro, but I expect pretty much any 230 vac 1.5 hp control box will work. If it has a run capacitor, in addition to the start capacitor, it will be a little more power efficient. But pumps for houses don't run long, so the electricity savings will be small.

 

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[Fitter30]

Could just replaced both capacitors and the relay. Relay will have numbers and brand on it might have a update part number.

 

[mudfish]

Thanks for the info, made me smarter already.
But i don't know how to take the run capacitor out of the circuit - since its contact melted it seems it took itself out. You mean rewire to bypass it?
The Grizzly pump manual claims it is a 230V (single phase) 12.3A motor, weirdly doesn't say the GPM. but the original driller wrote that he got 14GPM from 390ft deep.

Sure hope the pump isn't bad Ugh. Well drillers to pull it up are scarce around here now. If the worst happened, i'll get a good-better pump.

I'll turn the power on in the morning and check what amps are at the pressure switch.

Could just replaced both capacitors and the relay. Relay will have numbers and brand on it might have a update part number.

I found a start capacitor with the same specs. The run capacitor doesn't have legible printing on it so can't tell what its specs are. I'll pull the relay and see what it is.

 

[Fitter30]

What's the brand and part # off controller? Capacitors can't be taken of the circuit. Don't power the pump up till parts or controller Is replaced.

 

[Reach4]

If you can disconnect one wire of the run capacitor, it will be out of the circuit.

Expect about 15mFd for the run capacitor. That capacitor is not electrolytic. The start capacitor is what is called a non-polarized electrolytic, which internally is two electrolytic capacitors in series. The start capacitor is only in use for a few seconds, and then the relay takes it out of the circuit.

https://www.aquascience.net/goulds-control-box-for-3-wire-1-5hp-230v-motors has a schematic for a control box with no run capacitor.

https://waterwelljournal.com/why-electric-motors-fail-3/ figure 2 has a schematic diagram with a run capacitor.

 

[mudfish]

Sorry for the delay, didn't get email notifications so adjusted my settings.

Fitter30 - Red Jacket controller #52808 (no longer sold). Grizzly pump model# 150CNI-12G18 submersible 1.5hp 230v single-phase pump. 6" pipe 390ft deep.
The PCB melted under the scorched contact on the run capacitor so it needs a new PCB printed circuit board, that's beyond me. i'll get a whole new control box, darn it. It lasted a good many years.

Reach4 - I saved screenshots of those two wiring schematics for reference.
I didn't check the amps on the pressure switch because everything is dismantled now.
Since my run capacitor contact melted the PCB where it connects i pulled it from the box. Now i see the part number on the back: York #26979 10mFd 440VAC 012-251 SFA4410A1.

Pulled the relay out. It's made in the USA!
"Products Unlimited" #071-070-1 38-H010A1909 Coil:256V 60Hz, 35 Amp-277VAC.

So I'll look for the best new control box since the PCB melted.
Fingers crossed it doesn't need a new pump.

 

[Fitter30]

Thanks for the info, made me smarter already.
But i don't know how to take the run capacitor out of the circuit - since its contact melted it seems it took itself out. You mean rewire to bypass it?
The Grizzly pump manual claims it is a 230V (single phase) 12.3A motor, weirdly doesn't say the GPM. but the original driller wrote that he got 14GPM from 390ft deep.

Sure hope the pump isn't bad Ugh. Well drillers to pull it up are scarce around here now. If the worst happened, i'll get a good-better pump.

I'll turn the power on in the morning and check what amps are at the pressure switch.



I found a start capacitor with the same specs. The run capacitor doesn't have legible printing on it so can't tell what its specs are. I'll pull the relay and see what it is.

Since everything is obsolete I'd call franklin electric for a starter box recommendation +1 800-437-6897

 

[mudfish]

Thanks for all the info and help, i'll post back with results.