Angle stop installation thread and video

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geronimo21

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"There's a thread on here where I showed a guy how easy it would be to just turn off the water, cut the pipe, and install the new cutoff, including a video showing it done. It's just a compression fitting, so no soldering necessary. He had no idea it would be so simple."

wjcandee, Do you happen to know where that thread is where you show how to install a new cutoff?

I put a new 1/4 turn angle valve on, but kept the old compression nut on. I wanted to replace the flange

P1040966.jpg

b/c the old one is painted on and looks like crap, but water was pouring out (even though main was off) and I wouldn't have been able to get if off anyway with the compression nut still on.

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So, I was interested in seeing your post and video regarding replacement. Also, do you have any tips on stopping water from coming out of the copper inlet pipe?

I am assuming b/c it's the lowest plumbing line, all the water drains out there even after releasing pressure elsewhere in the house. Thank you.

I have another old angle stop that I want to change to a new 1/4 turn one. Here is a picture of that:

P1040962.jpg

This one doesn't have as much copper pipe sticking out of the wall, so I'm not sure I will have enough to cut off.:confused:

All advice appreciated.
 

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Fumisan

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sleeve_puller_2.jpg


I would pick up a sleeve puller from a hardware store.

Thank you, Terry. Sounds like a good idea.

Would you recommend pulling the compression nuts/ferrules, sliding new flanges on and then new compression nuts/ferrules?

Any advice on stopping the water flow? Just let it all drain out? It's coming out too fast to do any real inspection of pipe...let alone get a sleeve puller on there.

Also, the 1/2" copper stub out in master bath sticks out 2.5" plus however much is in the angle stop valve. Would you recommend that I cut that down or just leave it that length?

Thank you.
 
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Jadnashua

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Depending on the brand, you need approximately 1" or so of copper sticking out for the valve to be installed. Often, if the threads are the same, you can reuse the compression ring and nut, but if it doesn't seal, you either didn't tighten it enough, or something got damaged, or the shape is just not compatible and you need to pull it and install the one that came with it (it will look better, too!).
 

Fumisan

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Thank you, jadnashua,

Looks like I need a sleeve puller. My big concern is how to stop the water gushing out of the stub out.

Does it just take some time and will stop? Do you know how much volume of water I should anticipate coming out before it stops?

Thank you!
 

Terry

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You will need to shut the water off to the building, and open faucets to drain. It's quicker if you open all of the cold faucets, on both floors.


sleeve_puller_3.jpg
 
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WJcandee

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Hi, sorry to take so long to respond. I think you are more skilled already than the person I was helping, but here's a link to the thread in question. You can see the photos and the video (not of me) of the guy changing out a compression angle stop in various links within the response, which starts at post number 8 in this thread: https://terrylove.com/forums/showth...line-on-wall&highlight=compression+angle+stop

How much water is going to come out that pipe depends upon how much pipe you have in the house above it. (Seriously, I'm not meaning to be glib.)

One thing to be careful of, I think, is that if your valve there is below the level of the water heater (and maybe regardless), then I would, out of an abundance of caution, turn off the water heater until you have repressurized the system. When you turn the water back on at the main, leave all the faucets open that you opened to drain the system, and let them run while all sorts of puffs of air go shooting through them. It will be a bit of a while. Also, don't be surprised if this adventure stirs up gunk in the bottom of your water heater; you may see some brown stuff (which is basically rust) coming out of the faucets and toilets for a day or two. You may also need to remove and rinse the aerators in your sink faucets which might get clogged with the gunk. Don't freak out, this is a common thing. Last time they did work in our house, we literally had brown stuff coming out the hot and cold side for two days -- which speaks to the fact that our maintenance program on the furnace and water heater didn't include draining and cleaning the water heater annually, something that I have now taken care of. If I had caused that mess myself, I would have been kicking myself and assuming that I had done something wrong, but in fact it's essentially normal.
 

Fumisan

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Thanks, wjcandee, for the link and all of the advice. I was up in the attic a while ago and there is quite a bit of plumbing up there, so maybe it will take a while to drain out. Per your advice, I will open up faucets and shut the valves at the water heater. We just replaced the water heater a couple of months ago and put ball valves on the intake and outflow lines. So, I can definitely shut those off. Hopefully, we won't see all the gunk for days since it is new, but good to know that it is a possibility.

Incidentally, the water does seem to have stopped dripping from the replaced angle stop, but I still might go back and cut the stub out shorter (it sticks out pretty far) and change the flange. I agree with you that it will look better. I know some people don't care, but for me, the little things add up...We are remodeling the bathroom and an old flange that's beat up with paint on it just doesn't look good to me.

We've got another bathroom that we want to change the angle stop on, so I appreciate the link and your advice. Thank you!
 

WJcandee

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I didn't mean to isolate the water heater with your valves, I meant to power it off, so it doesn't turn on to heat water when there is no water in it.
 
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