2 houses 1 well, would like to be able to have them work independently

[jdb0686]

I have done a lot of searching for this issue, but none of the threads I can find seem to have this particular question

I have 1 well, a small cabin 75 feet away, and my sometimes home is maybe 150 feet from the well, I would like to run the water lines to the houses so that I can have both houses work with their own pressure tanks, but also be able to drain the water from either building and the other house still have water, what's the best way to set this up so that I don't have cycling problems with the pump.

I would like to be able to leave for weeks at a time without having to heat one of the buildings, but it won't always be the same one I need to drain and shut down

So 2 houses, 1 well, and I want them to both work independently without relying on the other house for pressure, is this possible?

 

[Fitter30]

Have internet at both houses?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

I don't feel comfortable, with what I will describe, because the chance and penalty for screwing up is great. I think you are saying that either pressure tank could be frozen when the path has been cut off by a curb stop below the frost line, and the pipes purged of water.

Suppose each house and tank have a pressure switch. The pressure switch contacts are wired in parallel. So if either calls for water, the pump goes on. It would be critical that you switched off the electrical path for each pressure switch when you disable.

It would be critical to close the curb stop and remove the water for the cold building.

The two pressure switches should be set the same, except compensated for any altitude difference.

One thought would be to use a separate check valve to supply each house. I am not sure that check valves are needed. I am not a pro.

 

[Valveman]

You only need one pressure tank. Two tanks will cause problems. The only way to eliminate any cycling problems is to add a Cycle Stop Valve before the tank.

It would be best if you could leave the pressure tank and pressure switch in one of the buildings and just tee a water line over to the other building.

You could put a brass bleeder orifice in the well and without any check valve above ground, you can easily drain the entire system. When you are ready to leave just turn off power to the pump and open a faucet at each house. All the water will drain out of the houses down to the bleeder orifice. When you return, turn on power to the pump, wait for the air to stop coming out of the faucets, close the faucets, and you are back in business.

 

[Reach4]

In jdb0686's scenario, either of the buildings could be sub-zero F.

So in that case, for a single pressure tank and pressure switch, both of those would need to be below the frost line..

 

[Valveman]

The Cycle Stop Valve models CSV125 and CSVS125 are made to fit inside the well casing. The CSV makes it possible to use such a small tank that even that can go in the well casing as with an In-Well tank. Baker also makes a pressure switch that fits on the pitless adapter. This way everything is below the frost line.

But the CSV will also work with a standard 4.5 gallon pressure tank like in the PK1A kit. The entire kit is very small and not hard to make a heated area for if you want to keep all the controls above ground.

 

[Fitter30]

Here's a wiring diagram for the two houses. Drain down both houses heat trace that might freeze, rv anti freeze all drains. Houses have crawl spaces? Block openings.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Functional-Devices-RIBU1C-Enclosed-Pilot-Relay-10-Amp-SPDT-w-10-30-Vac-DC-120-Vac-Coil?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_tm&utm_campaign=Shopping_TM_New_users&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzMyHsozV_wIVMhitBh0NmwkHEAQYASABEgKfAfD_BwE

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-425068-Contactor-30A-2-Pole-24V-coil

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Packard-PM12040-Class-ll-Plate-Mounted-120V-Input-24V-Output-40VA-Transformer