1gpm well for irrigation

[Brad Perkins]

Today I have a question about float switches again. My plan is 2 normally closed switches with a 13 amp continuous rating. One is primary and other is secondary. I'll use the same switch on a normally open configuration for projecting my cistern pump in the event it tries to pump the tank dry. I also want to incorporate a float to activate a siren if the primary float fails.

Now the question. Should the pump switches be wired directly to the pump or through a relay? What is the max amperage I should expect to see from a Goulds 1/2 hp 10 gpm pump?

 

[Reach4]

My thoughts on that are in #63 73. Some float switches are rated to handle an amount of horsepower that takes into account the high surge current on start.

How do you plan to physically wire in the float switches? Wire nuts in a box?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Brad Perkins]

Looks like I made post 63.

I'm not actually doing any of the wiring. I'm trying to get a little knowledge so I know what answers I should be expecting when I talk to the electrician.

The switches I selected are rated for a momentary 85 amps. A2D23U is the model of the primary float I selected.

 

[Reach4]

Make that #73. I edited above.

https://www.lockewell.com/pdf/goulds/floats.pdf says

• Controls pumps up to 1/2 HP at 120 VAC and 1 HP at 230 VAC.

 

[Brad Perkins]

I understand your post. What it didn't address was if a relay is necessary or if the float switch like what you suggested... I believe it's the same as what I'm looking at though branded differently... Can handle constant current from the pump. Maybe I'm over complicating this..

 

[Reach4]

Now the question. Should the pump switches be wired directly to the pump or through a relay? What is the max amperage I should expect to see from a Goulds 1/2 hp 10 gpm pump?

Direct is ok.

Max starting amps would be 28 or 16 amps depending on whether you get the 115 or 230 volt pump. Running would be under 10 or under 5 amps.