It took me many hours to change the anode taking into account going to buy the cheapest 1/2 inch air powered torque wrench, having that break, drive an hour to the store, return for credit and getting the next step up 5/8 wrench and a set of sockets, drive back. That bigger wrench barely had the power to break the anode free. Water heater was about 9 years old at the time. The anode removed was pretty much the steel core rod, and some oxide lumps stuck to it, by the time I pulled it.I was looking for how long it would take to change just the anode and the leaky water valve
wow - who would have thought all that was involved!
thanks
Leave some slack but not so much that the chain can slide under the flapper. Other than that, adjust to what feels better.how does one adjust the position/ chain?
the outside lever goes a loooong way before the valve opens
thanks
ThanksLeave some slack but not so much that the chain can slide under the flapper. Other than that, adjust to what feels better.
Besides the ability to tighten or loosen by connecting to different links, many lever arms have more than one attachment hole. Clipping to the far end gives more swing for a given amount of lever movement, but it requires more force. Clipping closer to the lever makes the push easier.
See drawing #3 on https://terrylove.com/images/korky_trim_flapper.jpgI will look for a diagram of the tank so I can further understand your helpful repy
This is awkward, but...
It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.
If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.