Why won't this connection stop leaking?

[bha]

I think you guys are referring to the visible silver solder that is globbed on the joint (looks like glue)

I did use flux and heated both the fitting and pipe well. I held the torch on one side and applied solder to the other (didn’t apply solder directly into the flame). So the joint was hot enough to suck in the solder on the opposite side from the flame.

Once that was done, I kept adding solder just to “make sure” the joint was solid. That part was probably unnecessary and is what you guys are commenting on. If I had stopped after the first part, these joints would probably look perfect.

There is definitely solder in the joint. I tried to tighten one fitting with a pipe wrench after holding a torch on it and it would only turn for about 1 or 2 seconds after removing the torch. Then it was stuck solid together once it cooled just a little bit. This was all before I added the “extra” solder so it was just the solder in the joint holding things together.

 

[Fitter30]

Go to pipe dope is anaerobic comes in many brands set up in lack of air. Its not cheap. Threads are damaged, even torn or thread bottoms out hand tight x- pando its a powdered, mix with water brush on come back in 12 hours
and you don't have to get excited about getting super tight.
https://www.xpando.com/pjcfaq.php

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jeff H Young]

Go to pipe dope is anaerobic comes in many brands set up in lack of air. Its not cheap. Threads are damaged, even torn or thread bottoms out hand tight x- pando its a powdered, mix with water brush on come back in 12 hours
and you don't have to get excited about getting super tight

Wow Im going to call that " Cheater Dope" Thanks fitter 30 Im going to look it up . Ive heard old school mineral oil or cutting oil mix with cement
https://www.xpando.com/pjcfaq.php

 

[Chucky_ott]

I wasn't really referring to the excess but rather in the way the solder appeared to flow. Not sure how to explain it but from the picture, it's as if you had blobs that could not flow due to surface tension. But your technique to heat one side and apply the solder from the other is good. But you have to be quick so as not to burn the flux off.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I wasn't really referring to the excess but rather in the way the solder appeared to flow. Not sure how to explain it but from the picture, it's as if you had blobs that could not flow due to surface tension. But your technique to heat one side and apply the solder from the other is good. But you have to be quick so as not to burn the flux off.

Dont want him to worry about it . It does have a funny look cant really describe it well. but I think its fine we solder all the time its second nature . A good Idea to keep an eye on it or any joints made by inexperianced or semi experianced hands.

 

[Reach4]

I think the explanation of going back in, and adding some solder without a total re-melt, explains the appearance. I agree. Don't worry.

 

[WorthFlorida]

As far as the soldered joints, too much heat is as bad as not enough. If you keep feeding solder when it is more than enough, it will flow inside the pipe and drip in to tiny balls. These can then plug up aerators, the filter screen on washing machine connections, and jam up ball valves.

In this situation, the fittings at the union and ball valve should have been soldered on a bench so it would have be horizontal for a cleaner joint making this nipple. The other half of the union would be needed to be solder on the down pipe above. If all joints need to be soldered vertically, start at the bottom fitting and work up. Starting at the top and working down, heat will raise up the pipe and can keep the already soldered joints soft and pull out some solder. It's all from experience and practice.