Well Pressure switch

[TimPicard]

Sounds empty maybe a third of the way up. Will add air now.

If I decide to up pressure range (large nut) I assume I have to add more air to tank?

Sorry - hid the sizing a few posts ago: HT-20B 20 Gal Tank/42Gal Equiv

Inbox clicked and on top of list for consideration - thanks.

 

[Reach4]

Sounds empty maybe a third of the way up. Will add air now.

If I decide to up pressure range (large nut) I assume I have to add more air to tank?

Yes. If the tank sounds empty of water now, the tank may indeed be still OK. You will want to check the air precharge to make sure. If the air precharge pressure dropped to zero, that may indicate a small leak. Another possible source of air leak is the air valve. There should be a cap with seal over the Schrader valve. If the one that came with the tank was missing, you could use one intended for car tires.

When air is low like it is now, the diaphragm stretches more than it should. The Water Worker tank does not have the "multi-dome" feature to limit diaphragm stretching.

The penalty for having the precharge too high is to have the pressure stutter when the pump cuts on. A submersible pump is quick to deliver water, but in that interval, it is the pressure tank that supplies the water.

I hope you have an air compressor or high-volume tire inflator. Those "250 psi" tire inflators are typically very slow. A good compressor will have a CFM or SCFM rating, and not just psi.

 

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[TimPicard]

I added 18 psi with air compressor and the tank now reads 35. The pressure is still too low, so I'll likely up the range soon.

I guess it's conceivable that there are pressure-reducing issues with my water softener and elsewhere, right?

 

[Reach4]

I added 18 psi with air compressor and the tank now reads 35. The pressure is still too low, so I'll likely up the range soon.

I guess it's conceivable that there are pressure-reducing issues with my water softener and elsewhere, right?

I would raise the air to 28 psi from 18 at zero psi water.

I would try 3.5 turns CW on the nut on the big spring, aiming for 30/50. I would watch that the water pressure is still rising at a good rate as I approach 50, and if it gets slow in the last few psi, I would back off maybe half of the increase.

If you found that you now had 31 psi-cut in, you could raise your air to 29, rather than trying to back off the pressure switch to 30 cut in. It's not that 28 is too low, but you are going to lose maybe 2 psi in the next year if your tank is in good shape.

You could wait a week, and see if the 28 held, before making changes.

 

[TimPicard]

I'll complete those steps in the next hour.

As always, can't thank you enough for the patience and education/guidance

 

[Bannerman]

I added 18 psi with air compressor and the tank now reads 35. The pressure is still too low, so I'll likely up the range soon.

As you have been advised multiple times, the tank air pressure is to be measured (and adjusted) after the pump has been shut off and after the waterside of the tank has been completely drained so there is 0 water pressure remaining.

When adding air to the tank, the 18 psi discussed, is the maximum pressure your tire pressure gauge should read. If there is 18 psi air in the tank, the tire gauge should not read 35 psi when there is no water in the tank.

When adding air to the tank, leave the water drain faucet open so any water that may be remaining within the tank can be pushed out by the air that is added. Once any remaining water has stopped flowing from the faucet, that is when you will calibrate the air pre-charge to 18 psi (or 28 psi if using 30/50 pressure switch settings).

 

[TimPicard]

Thanks, Bannerman, my error.

Since my stroke, I'm not as sharp as I was ... or thought I was!

Take care.