Water Testing

[Civrel]

A while back I purchased a Hach5B Water Hardness test kit. My softener started to give me problems again so I thought lets test the water inside and out. I took a sample from the pump faucet and followed the directions on the test kit and after 100+ drops, the solution had not changed from pink to blue.

I thought well, bad reagents and tested the water post softener. After 1 drop the solution changed from pink to blue.

If the solution did not change color after 100 drops, I would have over 100 GPG, probably likely.

If I dilute the outside sample 50% with water from the RO filter and retest, and assuming I get a color change with fewer than 100 drops, can I multiply that number by 2 to get the total hardness?

 

[Reach4]

Yes, but perhaps you should dilute 1:2, 1:3 or 1:4 if needed. The Hach 5B is only rated for up to 30 drops per the instructions.

Looks like your softener is doing a good job.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Civrel]

I tested the softener after the second regeneration. I had problems about two years ago and the cause was that scale filled head, basket and discharge hose.

Lately it has not been regenerating as needed and I have a feeling that it is the little sensor that clamps over the inflow line. It apparently reads the revolutions of the little propeller in the hard water intake side or the programing is messed up in the computer.

I also probably need new resin as the current resin is about 6 years old. I was just trying to track any changes to the quality of my water. I believe that my system is undersized. I am running about 6 ppm of iron plus howver many gpg hardness my water is running. Yes, a 1:1 cur is not enough, as I see the 30 gpg limit on the box.

I will need to get a graduated tube to measure accurately. Maybe I'll just take the sample to the pool store.

 

[Reach4]

Suppose you took a jar and rinse it with RO water, and dry it. Then add 2 T of RO water and 1 T of raw water. Swirl, and fill the test tube with the mix. Determine the hardness of the mix, and multiply by 3.

I don't know about your diagnosing the system, but I suggest you post what controller you have, what the settings are, how much resin do you have and/or what are tank height and dimensions.

 

[ditttohead]

Anything will work, 3 coffe cups of RO water to 1 cup of Raw water in a coffee pot will d just fine. The only problem is the RO water may not be pure enough and will give you some hardness. Most RO systems will only give approximately 90% rejection in a residential application. A bottle of distilled water would be more accurate but... probably not critical. Don't bother with a pool store test, just dilute your sample.
What system and size do you have? Assuming 100+ grains, most systems will be too small. http://www.impactwaterproducts.com/#!softener-sizing/c23g7

 

[Bannerman]

I also probably need new resin as the current resin is about 6 years old.

Six year old resin is not old. Resin will typically last more than 20 years. Constant chlorine exposure will reduce the life of resin and iron deposits can foul resin unless the resin is regularly treated to remove the iron deposits. Have you been running Iron Out or Super Iron Out through the softener a regular basis?

With your high level of iron, it would be best to remove the iron before it contacts the softener. Each PPM of iron is the equivalent to 3-4 grains of hardness in capacity and salt consumption.

It is advisable to install an iron treatment system such as chlorine injection and contact tank then followed by a back washing carbon filter, all installed before your softener. Before doing anything, it would be wise to obtain a comprehensive water test to help you to know the level of treatment that is required.

 

[Mialynette2003]

I have found that if there is iron in the water, older powder will not turn blue. There is a color change but you have to look very close to notice it.

 

[Civrel]

I was waiting to reply until to got some more information together. I went to two different places and had my water tested for hardness. The first company used a a handheld TDS meter and came up with 291 ppm calcium hardness (17 gpg) and the second company used a titration test can came up with 310 ppm ( 18 GPG) calcium hardness. Unless the iron was interfering with my test as someone suggested, the Hach should have worked at this level. The Hach reagents are all in date.

I'm not sure how a TDS meter can test for iron, but the dealer said I have 2 ppm iron. I could not get the iron tested at the second company I visited. I believe that the iron levels are much higher than 2 ppm. The iron appears to be the ferrous form, as the coloration becomes much darker after it sits for a while in the bucket. However, a freshly drawn bucket of water has a yellowish orange tinge as well (tannic acid?) We was once told we have tannic acid in the water and also told that a "white" resin was added to the softener that would remove the tannic acid. However,the resin in the tank all looks the same and told by another person that the softeners come pre-pack from the factory with resin and that dealers are not allowed to change the content of the resin tank or the factory warranty is voided.

It is sounding line I need to have the water sampled by a certified laboratory to get an accurate answer regarding the quality of our water. I am leaning toward the following parameters, any other suggestions:

Calcium hardness
pH
Iron (ferrous FE++)
Iron (ferric FE+++)
Tannins

 

[Mialynette2003]

I do all those tests and any GOOD water treatment company should also. I believe that the iron is the reason you do not get the "royal blue" color when testing. Buy a bottle of Zepherhills water and test it. You will have it turn blue within 12-17 drops. Then test your water. Notice that the pink color is dull with your water. If you look very closely, you will see a change in the color but will never see the royal blue. You may even try 2 scoops of powder in your water. If you like, you can mail me a sample and I can test it at no charge.

 

[Reach4]

You want to check for total hardness which is expressed in calcium-equivilant numbers, but also includes magnesium hardness in that number. If your toilet tanks are orange inside, that means that you have significant iron. Search for posts that mention "Iron Out" for a method of treating your resin to overcome iron. I have a backwashing filter that deals with my iron and sulfur before the water ever gets to the softener. As Bannerman pointed out, it is nice to deal with the iron before the softener. Ferric iron is rust, and it can be removed with a mechanical filter.

If your well is shallow, you probably want to test for nitrate, nitrite, and pathogenic bacteria also. Testing for pesticides would be a good idea with a shallow well in an agricultural area. I don't know about a tannin test. That would more commonly be something in lakes and shallow wells near decomposing vegetation.

The well check from http://www.ntllabs.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=NTL&Category_Code=Homeowner is often recommended, but mialynette2003's offer sounds outstanding, although he is not signing up for testing the whole spectrum. I have one well. He is much more knowledgeable.

 

[ditttohead]

take mialynette2003 up on his offer. He is very good at the problem waters in your area.