Testing ABS DWV - above finished drywall, bottom filling with water, and test caps

[Rossn]

The ABS DWV runs in areas where a release of water during testing would be not-good (some finished drywall, storage directly on floor, etc). I'd prefer air, but that sounds risky. Would love to know alternate approaches to lessen the risk.

1. Are these are Oatey or Fernco caps like these trustworthy for the test? 19' of rise from where it punches through the slab to the roof vent.

2. Any issue doing a 'bottom fill' until the vent runs over, instead of from the roof? Getting onto the roof (from another roof) is difficult/dangerous and moving on this metal roof is a bit dangerous, as well. However, difficult to see if the water drops, per se.

I'd do this with a lav drain fernco'd to black iron nipple, reduced to 3/4", then FIP to swivel FHT adapter, connected to a hose valve then garden hose. Hope that sounds OK.

3. Do you think this strapping support is kosher and going to hold the weight of the filled pipe OK? Under the stair landing (6' wide), it's only strapped to the wall.

Background:
I have some ABS drain pipe that was installed by a plumber a few years back... and the above-slab portion has not yet been inspected. That part of the residential project was delayed, but need to install a sink/drain currently.

It goes from walkout basement area up one floor, with the 3" line running about 50' in total (to the second floor)... these are areas where it is either over drywall or would be bad if there was a sudden release of water during testing.

 

[John Gayewski]

You could do a vacuum test.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Rossn]

You could do a vacuum test.

Thanks. I did think about that, but didn't find it as an approved means in IPC. Certainly it would be fine for the pre-inspection test.

Is it generally accepted or becoming more accepted by inspectors?

 

[Jeff H Young]

jim caps and dollar plugs both blow off not all the time but I used to do a lot of new homes and it happens

 

[Rossn]

jim caps and dollar plugs both blow off not all the time but I used to do a lot of new homes and it happens

Thanks. I came to the conclusion a few hours ago that for the places where there were glue-in test plugs, I'd use throw a Jim cap over it, and for the other ones, I'd just glue on a regular ABS cap... that's done now. The red caps look better to me than the Jim caps.

Think I should supplement the side-mounted galvanized strapping? I fear that when one of those sees 45+ pounds of weight, it might not hold up as the installer thought it would.

 

[John Gayewski]

In our area we only test dwv for underground applications. A leak that is above ground is pretty obvious and can be fixed later. I'm not sure I've ever tested dwv above ground. Have you checked that a test is really good need done on this?

 

[Jeff H Young]

ours bathroom additions new homes major remodels and drain repipes , all get filled through the roof with few exceptions . leaks above ground in the joist bays and stud walls are no joke and cant be fixed easily without busting out walls sometimes floors or cabinets like above kitchen. Im talking about work with permits I dont see testing waived but non permited over a open cieling like a basement Id have to agree is little concern

 

[Rossn]

In our area we only test dwv for underground applications. A leak that is above ground is pretty obvious and can be fixed later. I'm not sure I've ever tested dwv above ground. Have you checked that a test is really good need done on this?

Interesting. Actually, the underground plumbing they did not test, given it tied into an existing main line. I haven't asked the inspector, but when I asked a local plumber who works in my county (guy is ready to retire), he said the county accepts both air and water testing, so I assume it's required here.

I have a concern that after everything is truly finished (not just the drywall ceiling in the garage area), a leak may show upon some sort of backup. That may be an unfounded concern, but why I'd want to do some testing.

I was in Ames about 5 years, so know a little of your area.

 

[Rossn]

ours bathroom additions new homes major remodels and drain repipes , all get filled through the roof with few exceptions . leaks above ground in the joist bays and stud walls are no joke and cant be fixed easily without busting out walls sometimes floors or cabinets like above kitchen. Im talking about work with permits I dont see testing waived but non permited over a open cieling like a basement Id have to agree is little concern

My issue with the roof is it's a bit treacherous to actually get onto (ladder on top of another peak), and then it's slippery metal standing seam. I really try to avoid it, as I've had my feet start sliding down it before. I don't see a physical issue filling from inside.

Yes, this work is under permit. Safe to assume most blow-outs, assuming each is checked for sealant are test plugs? If so, I think by using a real ABS cap and Fernco cap over a white glue-ins that the plumber added should leave me reasonably safe. just do not want a major blow-out.

 

[John Gayewski]

I was in Ames about 5 years, so know a little of your area.

Nice, my lady was/is a cyclone. We always called it Lames.

Yes I can see wanting to test. There's nothing wrong with wanting a test. It's helpful to know while a system is being built that it will be tested. Testing in sections would've been easier (info that doesn't help you now).

I guess without going back and re reading everything. Threaded plugs and glue caps are best. If you use a fernco cap use something to help hold it like a ratchet strap or something.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Rossn my experiance with the white glue ins is mixed a real good cut on the pipe helps . its a waste of money but a perm cap will never blow off around 4 bucks now adays for 1 1/2 . i dont go on a roof to fill i connect a garden hose to a lav stub out,

 

[Rossn]

Nice, my lady was/is a cyclone. We always called it Lames.

Yes I can see wanting to test. There's nothing wrong with wanting a test. It's helpful to know while a system is being built that it will be tested. Testing in sections would've been easier (info that doesn't help you now).

I guess without going back and re reading everything. Threaded plugs and glue caps are best. If you use a fernco cap use something to help hold it like a ratchet strap or something.

I call it LAmes, too

The plumber knew it would be tested for the permit, even left a balloon plug for the 3" cleanup and pressure gauge. Of course, that ballon plug has now rotted, so I'm waiting for one from supplyhouse.com, given local plumbing supply is like $20 more on the same tool. Like the idea of the backup on the the Fernco. I decided to use one of those only as a backup to the glue-ins test caps that the plumber put in place. But in 2 locations I glued on a real cap.

 

[Rossn]

Rossn my experiance with the white glue ins is mixed a real good cut on the pipe helps . its a waste of money but a perm cap will never blow off around 4 bucks now adays for 1 1/2 . i dont go on a roof to fill i connect a garden hose to a lav stub out,

Ok, noted and thanks. For those where length isn't an issue I did add a permanent cap. Felt better, for sure. Thanks for confirmation for filling from a lav stub out. That was what I was planning... that attachment will be a fernco coupling... hope it holds well... will probably add a couple extra clamps. Luckily it's at only about 9' from the top.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Ok, noted and thanks. For those where length isn't an issue I did add a permanent cap. Felt better, for sure. Thanks for confirmation for filling from a lav stub out. That was what I was planning... that attachment will be a fernco coupling... hope it holds well... will probably add a couple extra clamps. Luckily it's at only about 9' from the top.

you can glue a male adapter on or fill from , a tapped clean out tee as well.