Solenoid Valve inside cistern on city water

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cgriffin12

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Can someone recommend a 1” solenoid valve or some other better option that will be located inside of the cistern tank and is rated for this wet environment. Also seeking recommendations on a float valve to go with it.

My set up is a city water flowing uphill to fill an underground 1,100gal cistern, at cistern inlet the city pressure is around 10psi and flow is around 8 gpm. I then have a submersible well pump in the cistern with a CSV and bladder tank. I had a ball float valve to shut off the incoming water but have had a valve failure 2 times in last 6 months on a system installed around 2 years ago. I need something more durable to shut off the city water when the tank is full to prevent tank overflow.
 

Valveman

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The solenoid valve should go outside the tank. A regular "pump up" float switch and 24V transformer is all that is needed.
LOW YIELD WELL_and storage with two PK1A.jpg
 

cgriffin12

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I would love to put it outside of the tank but the tank is underground and underneath a building so accessing it would be very difficult.
Currently there is a float valve inside the tank and I would like to just replace that. I’ve seen some wet rated solenoid valves online but honestly don’t know anything about these. I just need something more durable than this 1” float valve I current:
https://www.watts.com/products/plum...es-agricultural-solutions/float-valves/st1000
 

cgriffin12

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Logistically it is very difficult for me to get to the incoming line in a place to put the solenoid before the tank as near the tank inlet there is a “t” type valve to bypass the tank and allow water to flow at the low pressure into the house in case the electricity goes out. I’m just curious if these waterproof type solenoid I’ve seen online would be possible to use on the water inlet inside of the tank. One such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/Fincos-Normally-Closed-Waterproof-Solenoid/dp/B07RTN77XW

If not I’m going to have to rent a backhoe and digup u see the edge of my building which is way more difficult than screwing a valve on inside of the tank if that option exists. I realize it’s not best case scenario but hopefully my explanation makes sense tonsomeone other than me :)
Thanks in advance for all of the info
 

Greenmonster123

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Maybe you can draw a diagram as to how this is laid out because it sure seems odd. If you can phisically get in the tank to replace the valve why not pipe it out of the tank the same way you entered it and double it back. You could use any irrigation valve with transformer and float switch
 

Reach4

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I think a mechanical float valve and an electrical solenoid in series might be good for redundancy. Then schedule a test periodically that they are each working.
 

cgriffin12

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I think you just need a dependable float valve. Have you looked at Jobe Valves?


That’s exactly what I need, is there a durability difference between the topaz compact and the topaz differential. I would think the differential version would be more durable but didn’t know if it was worth the added expense, $80 vs $237
 

Valveman

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The differential or "non=modulating" valve works best when filling a trough or tank from the booster pump. But you only need the "modulating" regular float valve when filling a storage tank from a city water supply.
 
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