Replacing part of cast iron soil stack?

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nola mike

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I have a crack in my soil stack between the first and second floor. I assume the pipe runs vertically, venting through the roof. On the second floor, there are 2 full baths that share a wall. Most of the fixtures are not in proximity to the main pipe, and I have no idea what type of connections they have. Accessibility is terrible, as there is brick wall on 2 sides of the pipe. Pipe is cast iron. I was planning on cutting out about a 5 ft section of pipe, on either side of 2 joints (can't tell if the upper joint is leaking, or the crack goes to the joint), and using a collared no hub connector to PVC on either side. My neighbors had a similar repair done about 6 years ago, done that way. Couldn't find if there were any code/other issues with that. My main concern is what's supporting the cast pipe above where I'm cutting?
 

Jeff H Young

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Thats a good concern look into adding support on the upper and possibbly the lower section ? using whats called a riser clamp some call it a story clamp because cast iron needs supprt at every floor (story) use proper band on the cast iron to plastic connection
 

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Well thinking about this a bit more. I'll be cutting below the second floor, so it should be supported above that. At least there'll be a bunch of pipes branching off that will support it . I didn't see any collar above the first floor, but the pipe does a 90' resting on brick/framing. Which brings me to me next thought. Any reason not to run a new section of pipe beside the old one? I could put in a 45, small straight piece-->45-->5' section-->45-->short straight-->45-->main pipe. I don't know what the rules are in terms of number of bends/distances in a vertical stretch life that
 

Jeff H Young

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cost of fittings , ease of work , less fittings are better , general aestetics, are 4 conciderations . none of which are overwhelming 25 bucks in parts get in get out wham bam done is a good thing and a few 45s isnt much issue. If somehow its easier its worth concidering. verticle offsets arent much issue oh wait could produce more noise absolutely possible (likely) a basement might be no biggie
 

nola mike

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Just as a follow up...wow, that sucked. I bought a snap cutter that ended up splitting the pipe worse, extending it upwards. The pipe at that location was very brittle/thin. Strangely, above and below looked fine. The snap cutter couldn't get behind the pipe higher up. I ended up grinding the front of the pipe out, and then I was able to get the grinder inside the pipe and cut it from the inside out. I did have enough room (barely) to run another section of pipe beside the original and then connect it in the basement. The no hub connector fit perfectly on the upper section, but was very loose on the lower cast section and initially leaked. When I tightened it, the shield would skew. Not sure why that happened, if I had a bad connector or what (the pipe was the same diameter obviously), but once I realized it it was too late to replace. Anyway, got it leak free though I don't love it. Good news is it's exposed and in the basement, so if it starts to leak again it will be obvious. Man though, no joke that the PVC is much louder than the CI. Hoping closing in the wall will help.

CI section removed

IMG_20231106_152036.jpgIMG_20231106_144651.jpg

Finished upstairs

IMG_20231107_182601.jpgIMG_20231107_112501.jpgIMG_20231107_112437.jpgIMG_20231107_182538.jpgIMG_20231107_112444.jpg


Basement connection, you can see the puckered collar if you zoom in.

IMG_20231107_083615.jpg
 

Jeff H Young

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Good Times not ! Your coupling isnt quite the correct type but if its not closed up I suppose it wont hurt . a mission cp 33 or 44 or fernco p3000-33 or 44 would be the type if you decide to correct it . dont close up walls in my opinion though sorry to tell you
 

nola mike

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Good Times not ! Your coupling isnt quite the correct type but if its not closed up I suppose it wont hurt . a mission cp 33 or 44 or fernco p3000-33 or 44 would be the type if you decide to correct it . dont close up walls in my opinion though sorry to tell you
So what's the difference between those? Corrugated vs not? I can replace the collar easily enough, the rubber part not so much, correct? However, my wife isn't thrilled about having that as an accent wall, so it's going to have to be repaired. At any rate, that upper connection at least appears tight and solid...
 
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Jeff H Young

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So what's the difference between those? Corrugated vs not? I can replace the collar easily enough, the rubber part not so much, correct? However, my wife isn't thrilled about having that as an accent wall, so it's going to have to be repaired. At any rate, that upper connection at least appears tight and solid...
cast iron and plastic pipe arent equall diametors plastic has thicker wall bigger OD not much around a 1/16th inch my guess. so when use a proper band youll see the band is made to go on only one way the bigger side goes over the plastic pipe. The outter sleeve I dont see a reason for its differance between a standard no hub and the special cast iron to plastic band . Ive observed all brand that I recall seeing have the same charectoristics in the type of outter sleeve. Ive never given much thought to the outer sleeve and think the rubber is more important . It is the code though to use proper band
 

nola mike

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Thanks. This is for CI, so if anything the issue should have been fitting the PVC. At this point I think I'll do more harm than good by trying to swap out the rubber. I may still swap out the sleeve. Not sure why it fit no problem up top but had an issue with the bottom connection.
 

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hold a piece of pvc pipe up to a piece of cast iron and note the differant size of the 2 . the band will stretch tight on the pvc and baggy on the cast iron. Im sure you arent the only one to mis use the no hub band but just trying to help maybe on the next project youy can concider it
 

nola mike

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hold a piece of pvc pipe up to a piece of cast iron and note the differant size of the 2 . the band will stretch tight on the pvc and baggy on the cast iron. Im sure you arent the only one to mis use the no hub band but just trying to help maybe on the next project youy can concider it
Yeah I will, thanks. This clamp was made for the ci apparently (they didn't have the one I had looked up online and didn't realize the difference). Hopefully won't be a next time. I do think the upper will be fine, it's tight on both sections. Bottom I can keep an eye on and get to easily.
 
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