need a little help with settings

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Sponger76

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Ok, I will try to disclose any and all info that I can think of while posting this for best possible accuracy. I live in upstate NY. My home is an old circa 1800's farm house that has been added on to by cob artists over the years. As I tear out rooms, I rewire, insulate and sheetrock each room as I go. This said, there are still walls in my home that have either settled blown-in insulation, or none at all.
My boiler (I installed with no prior experience, hence why I am here) is a Navien NHB 110. I have a FMZ-20 circ pump controller hooked in with a navien communication cable. I installed the Navien GFFM-MSOZUS-001 primary/secondary manifold system. I have a caleffi dirt-mag filter installed on the return. The zones and boiler pump are controlled by 3 Wilo star s 21f circ pumps. The upstairs zone is in 3/4" copper and the downstairs is in 1" copper. There are check valves installed after each zone pumps to prevent back flow when 1 zone is calling and the other isn't. To give you insight into how I have everything setup, I will list my dip switches in order to help diagnose what I have going on here.
On my PCB dip switches, I currently have 1 through 6 off. 1 and 2 off sets the boiler to "normal operations" I did this because the other settings tend to overshoot and I am assuming when all is running correctly, this should work ok in normal operations.
On my dip switches #2 (8 switch unit) I have 1 and 8 turned on. 1 on is to run in "return temp mode", 8 on is for the exhaust temp control "off" I chose the #8 dip because I felt like when I initially ran it, it was giving me an error due to exhaust temp and since I have the proper venting material(CPVC), the instructions say I can disable that.
On the front panel dip switches 1-10 are off and then the last 2 are on 1 is for fahrenheit, 2 is for using LP gas.
On my FMZ-20, all the dip switches are set to off.

on the boilers digital menu options I have it set like this:
A.ORC yes on
B. 1
C. 0
D. 70
E. 0
F 100
G. 50
H. 3
I. 40
J. 100
K. ---
L. 4
M. 5
N. 180
O. 104
P. 149
Q. 86
R. 6
S. 0
T. ---
U. on
V. 30
W. off
X. off
Y. on
Z. 4
1. 1
2. 3
3. 15
4. 15
5. off
6. 5
7. ---
8. ---
9 0ff
+ no
Ok, so that is a lot, but I spaced it out for clarity and neatness.

I did a measurement of all the zones where there were fin tubes and here is what I have. Downstairs I have roughly 1055" or roughly 88' with 13 windows (all double pane glass with storms) 1 sliding glass door ( fairly new) and 3 steel entry doors, all with windows in them. Upstairs, I have roughly 965" or roughly 81' of fin tubing baseboard and 11 windows. (all single pane old style to match the house). I have been building frames for these windows to put a sealing edge on, in order to cut down on drafts.
Lastly, my symptoms. I have already been told that this boiler is far too big for my needs and I don't know about you guys, but I just dont have the money to throw at a new boiler when I have one that has a turn down ratio. I think I might be able to fine tune this one into doing what I need it to do, I just need help with the settings. I went into the menu and set my outdoor reset control to 0*F (originally +14*F). What is happening with my heater ( I don't think it is short cycling) is it never ramps up into a hot temp heating mode. it just casually heats up super slow (almost like a just a pilot light). We do a setback at night to 63 degrees (so we can sleep without opening windows) and then it kicks up to 70 on the thermostat at around 11am. Today, my wife noted that in an hours time, the thermostat climbed 1 degree. That can't be correct. It will take until bedtime to get up to 70 if it ever reaches 70...
Any help fine tuning this will be greatly appreciated. Bob
 
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