I have a 2009 Bradford White electric water heater. I noticed a bit of water leakage from the hot water side and decided to take it apart and replace the anode rod.
Took mine hot water outlet apart and couldn't get the anode rod out.
Put a 14" pipe wrench and 2' iron pipe over it and deformed the nipple a little.
Did a bit of googling and found this post on this forum.
I don't have a M18 bolt, but a 12mm socket fits just fine after bending the nipple back to shape.
Tried to unscrew it again with gradual increase of force, but the water heater moves a bit.
Did a little more googling and used ratchet straps and left over short 2x4 and 2x6 to secure the water heater in place.
And this time it worked. I reckon it took 200+ lb foot to unscrew it.
My anode rod has clearance issue as well.
Used a bit of wire to secure the bottom half in place and sawzalled it in half.
What a PITA to replace this.
Before I put the new anode rod in. I have well water and copper pipes. Does that amount of copper oxidation on the old anode rod look normal?
Took mine hot water outlet apart and couldn't get the anode rod out.
Put a 14" pipe wrench and 2' iron pipe over it and deformed the nipple a little.
Did a bit of googling and found this post on this forum.
I don't have a M18 bolt, but a 12mm socket fits just fine after bending the nipple back to shape.
Tried to unscrew it again with gradual increase of force, but the water heater moves a bit.
Did a little more googling and used ratchet straps and left over short 2x4 and 2x6 to secure the water heater in place.
And this time it worked. I reckon it took 200+ lb foot to unscrew it.
My anode rod has clearance issue as well.
Used a bit of wire to secure the bottom half in place and sawzalled it in half.
What a PITA to replace this.
Before I put the new anode rod in. I have well water and copper pipes. Does that amount of copper oxidation on the old anode rod look normal?
