anode rod replacement

Olimazi

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The hot water heater installer soldered the hot pipe in, where the anode rod is located (Bradford White); I was thinking of sweating out one of the joints and resoldering, but I don’t have much room or experience with flux/torch/solder.
If I were to cut the pipe, where to cut and what type of compression fitting to use. Thank you for your time.
IMG_0662.jpg
 
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Some jurisdictions require flexible WH connectors, and some forbid them. I presumed 24 inch in the following, but 18 inch may be ok too.

Assuming 3/4 inch, and if flexible allowed, I would prefer https://hdsupplysolutions.com/p/fal...-stainless-steel-corrugated-connector-p306748
https://rectorseal.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=water heater&manufacturer=Falcon Stainless is the maker's site.

Easier to get, easier to install , but a little smaller ID I think

Avoid flex lines with braided stainless over what may be rubber. Some of those emit little oily black particles into your hot water. Maybe some don't, but some do. Corrugated connectors are clearly not going to shed black particles.

Pulling that anode will not be easy. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....hite-water-heater-only-threads-exposed.80681/ has some discussion.

Looks like you would have to pull your vent pipe to be able to put the new anode in.

I would probably just wait until the WH leaks, and replace it. Consider a WH with an easier-to-change anode for replacement. If you get H2S smell, consider a powered anode.
 
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thanks for the reply - I cannot do flex in my township, what's plan B
How about you remove the vent. Cut a gap in the copper, and unscrew.

Note the use of a 5/8 bolt in the nipple before taking the pipe wrench to that nipple, to minimize crushing.

Put a long repair coupling to fill the gap. Cut to length. Use solder.

Also possible: https://www.sharkbite.com/us/en/brass-push-to-connect/fittings/couplings/brass-push-slip-coupling
With that, there is a specific-sized gap needed.
 
I will check the gap requirement on that sharkbite;
is it advisable to unsolder and resolder joints, or better to use the repair coupling.
 
I will check the gap requirement on that sharkbite;
is it advisable to unsolder and resolder joints, or better to use the repair coupling.
It seems to me that you will have to cut something. Otherwise, how would you disassemble with the solder melted? I am not experienced in this, and maybe I am missing something.

I know that most people do not change anodes. There are even people who remove the anode on a new WH to prevent H2S generation. Expect WH life to be shorter as a result, but I don't know how much shorter. 8 years instead of 12? 20 years instead of 30? It seems some water is harder on WHs than other water.

Hard water tends to lime up in the WH and protect it.
 
I will check the gap requirement on that sharkbite;
I don't find good instructions. But looking at https://www.sharkbite.com/sites/default/files/files/sharkbite-max-slip-coupling-spec-sheet-2024.pdf I think the max gap for 3/4 would be 4.9-1.25-1.25=2.4 inches. But wait: https://rwcamer.bynder.com/m/2dff1a0701d40ee1/original/SharkBite-Max-Fittings-Spec-Sheet.pdf has a 3.7 number, rather than 4.9. So that would be for the non-Max I think. So I would have the device before cutting the gaps.

There should be a spec on what the minimum gap would be needed, and you would aim for about midway between the min and the max, I would think.

"A Disconnect Clip or Disconnect Tongs are required to use this product."
 
In what document does it spell out that corrugated metal flex connectors aren't legal?
 
In what document does it spell out that corrugated metal flex connectors aren't legal?
why don't you buy a code book or look up AGA standards or natural fuel gas regulations

You should not expect someone else to keep teaching you the various codes involved

Do you have any plumbing inspectors in your area?

Have you considered taking plumbing classes?
 
see pic in original post
I do see problems with the installation

1- The top of the heater should have a label stating do not solder with in 6" of the heater as it can ruin the dielectric fitting (nipple)

2- The installer did not use a union to disconnect the heater easily

3- A decent installer would also install two valves one on the inlet and one on the outlet

Re: SharkBite

I never used one and I would check local codes to make sure it is legal in NJ
I would be concerned if the SharkBite is safe to use on HW as the coefficient of expansion per degree may cause it to leak.

Also I wonder what effects Chlorine has on these fittings in the long term?

I don't like to depend on an O ring if possible especially on HW

If you decide to solder by the tank use a heat sink at the base of the tank connections so not to damage the insulated nipples
 
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why don't you buy a code book or look up AGA standards or natural fuel gas regulations

You should not expect someone else to keep teaching you the various codes involved

Do you have any plumbing inspectors in your area?

Have you considered taking plumbing classes?
I think you know that you sound bitter and confused at best.

Why use so many words to say "I don't know"?
 
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I think you know that you sound bitter and confused at best.

Why use so many words to say "I don't know"?
Well I do know some of the codes I did look at stated Shark Bite fittings may require provisions to prevent hydraulic shock which can cause slippage and a joint failure.

Also some "Experts" ( this leaves you out john) also stated that Shark bite should be accessible as it does not have long time reliability so far.

John you stated so many errors about codes you certainly do not have any understating about

You have no clue that soil lines and water supply is still considered "plumbing" after it is past the foundation wall

Your lack of knowledge shows you never attended an UA apprentice program and you rely on handyman connections that are inferior to what a certified journeyman or master plumber or most skilled people would refrain from using.

You could not even answer the question why a decent plumber could convince jury to award an accident victim $875,000 because of a toilet seat.

It is not totally your fault it has to do with actual training which you were lacking.

In your area a foul up may only cause a person to get sick or even killed unlike an explosion in a highly populated area.

You refused to acknowledge your short comings in your choice of plumbing materials and then lie about how it universally accepted

I now have 25 employees in my plumbing company and 15 in my fire suppression company. I made sure all of them continue to take courses to keep abreast of code changes and other changes occurring in the industry.

No one knows it all and will never will BUT you according to remarks you spewed with noting to back it up.

Have a good life and keep thinking you know it all and will not listen to any advice given to you as you have a closed mind which is detrimental for your chance to be a decent plumber.
 
Well I do know some of the codes I did look at stated Shark Bite fittings may require provisions to prevent hydraulic shock which can cause slippage and a joint failure.

Also some "Experts" ( this leaves you out john) also stated that Shark bite should be accessible as it does not have long time reliability so far.

John you stated so many errors about codes you certainly do not have any understating about

You have no clue that soil lines and water supply is still considered "plumbing" after it is past the foundation wall

Your lack of knowledge shows you never attended an UA apprentice program and you rely on handyman connections that are inferior to what a certified journeyman or master plumber or most skilled people would refrain from using.

You could not even answer the question why a decent plumber could convince jury to award an accident victim $875,000 because of a toilet seat.

It is not totally your fault it has to do with actual training which you were lacking.

In your area a foul up may only cause a person to get sick or even killed unlike an explosion in a highly populated area.

You refused to acknowledge your short comings in your choice of plumbing materials and then lie about how it universally accepted

I now have 25 employees in my plumbing company and 15 in my fire suppression company. I made sure all of them continue to take courses to keep abreast of code changes and other changes occurring in the industry.

No one knows it all and will never will BUT you according to remarks you spewed with noting to back it up.

Have a good life and keep thinking you know it all and will not listen to any advice given to you as you have a closed mind which is detrimental for your chance to be a decent plumber.
LOL. Proud ua member local 125. Here's the thing about the UA. Apprentice-ing 40 years ago doesn't account for much,and leaving right away doesn't account for much either. The thing about the UA and staying in is you get to meet and work with so many knowledgeable people it keeps our brains going instead of atrophy. You take up to date classes with other professionals instead of some "give me $40 and I'll sign your ceu document" in the back of a grocery store.

Leaving and drain cleaning doesn't hold much value nor does it keep your knowledge base growing. It's almost like leaving the biggest professional association in the field was a mistake, and then trying to use the UA as a credential is pretty sad.
Your not a member and apprenticeships only hold value if you train apprentices after. Working with people you just find and showing them how to pressure wash shit without getting too much in your mouth must have helped rot your brain, I think it's getting worse.

Quit starting fights with me.
 
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