Mono Flow Heating Not returning from up stairs.

[Robert Brigida]

Main T breaks off into front of house and back of house. The back of house goes UP to bedroom, no Tee, then down to basement, no Tee, then return from Bedroom, a Tee, then return from basement, a Tee.

The return from bedroom heat only makes it about a third of the way around the baseboard heater., so that return is cold. The basement heater works fine.

I have had three plumbers try and fail to get it to work.
At one point, the heater down stairs was moved so that I could move a wash/dryer. I am not sure what the configuration was before that, and not sure if that's when the issue started.

On the return from the bedroom, there is some crazy looking configuration with a shut off that I can't figure out what the purpose is. (Image attached).

What does this configuration even do? It's the return from the room above.

 

[Fitter30]

That bypass line has a what type of valve -check ( arrow pointing to the left or right) or gate valve in it? That black valve stem and handle does that go into that valve?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Robert Brigida]

That bypass line has a what type of valve -check ( arrow pointing to the left or right) or gate valve in it? That black valve stem and handle does that go into that valve?

Arrow pointing right...(i never noticed that before)

Yes it does go into the valve. Opening or closing it makes no difference. The water coming into the return Tee is luke warm at best. The water going up into the bedroom is incredibly hot to the touch.

Bleeding it makes no difference. It's been tried!

Thank you for getting back to me.

 

[Fitter30]

Brand and model of both the boiler and pump. Take some pics of boiler and piping around it. Supply line 1" ?
If that bypass line is open at all would bypass monoflow tee. Without the tee there wouldn't be any flow through the line. Cut that valve out cap the lines.

 

[Robert Brigida]

New all in one system (Heat and Hot Water) , but it was not working before the change. It was a gas furnace from the 70's.

When you say "cut that valve" what would that do? Why would that be different that just leaving it open?
Would you suggest that I just have the whole bypass thing removed?

There is a one inch pipe that splits at the end and goes to the front of the house and one to the back. The one in front splits somewhere into two. There are three "return" pipes into the furnace.

The one in the back goes:

Up bedroom, down baseement, return from bedroom, return from basement, then down to bathroom in basement return from bathroom, then up to another bedroom, and then return from the bedroom. All work great, except for the return from the first bedroom.

It's all one zone. (front and back).

I really appreciate your time, and your patience with my limited knowledge.

 

[Fitter30]

If the bypass is open at all the monoflow tee wouldn't work. By taking out the bypass valve and capping the lines let the monoflow tee start to work plus then you would know if the bypass was open or not.

 

[Robert Brigida]

If this makes you feel more confident that removing that bypass will fix it....
The bypass is HOT to the touch, even that little two inch section above the Tee. Right above the bypass is not hot. (Warm)

Before I hire another guy, I want to feel like this time it will work !

I really don't know much about it. Not sure what the original purpose of the bypass is. It seems to make no difference whether it is closed all the way, part way, or open all the way.


I really appreciate your insight.

Thanks.

 

[Fitter30]

Yes take the check and valve out cap both side of line. Line doesn't make any sense.