Laundry drain over flowing

[Dave meyers]

When my wash machine is running and we use the kitchen sink upstairs the washer will over flow onto the floor any advice on why this happens and how to fix.I have a pic to post hope it shows up and can help.http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/37287/2837492130103347040S500x500Q85.jpg

 

[rudytheplbr]

Slow W.M. drain

From the pic U posted the w.m. drain looks like it's galv. and 1-1/2" dia. The galv. may be corroded inside from all the laundry detergent thru it over the years. If you have a new washer, the washer pump may be overcoming the ability of even clean 1-1/2" galv. to drain.

I took another look at ur drainage set-up and it would take some work to re-size the w.m. drain up to 2". That 3"X1-1/2" C.I. tee would need replaced w/ a 3"X2" tee, and then a 2"X1-1/2" combo (for vent) and a 2" P-trap, for the drain. Fairly easy for a journeyman plbr.

Good Luck,

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dave meyers]

Where would you cut into the cast iron pipe?Or could I cut out the cast pipe right above the floor and run pvc up and connect the copper then?

 

[rudytheplbr]

W.M. drain

Dear Dave,
After another look I would cut away all that goop around the hub of the joint of the w.m. tee and cut just enough I could get a no-hub coupling on the existing pipe. Then break the hub of the w.m. tee and the thread hub and pull away the pcs. Get a 3x2 No-hub tee, two 3" no-hub couplings, a 2X1-1/2 ABS combo (long turn t-y), a 2" p trap and adapters to copper DWV and put it back like your pic shows, only w/ 2". Also some 2" pipe and a short pc of 1-1/2" for joining up the vent. Oh and a small can of cement.

Good Luck,

P.S. If that cast-iron in the Pic is 2" use a 2" tee instead of 3"

 

[Dave meyers]

Is it possible to put that in english instead of plumbing terms.Not up to speed on plumbing lingo.

 

[Dave meyers]

If I cut out the cast just below the T and up above where the copper pipe connects and replace with pvc and redo the laundry drain part in pvc.

 

[Redwood]

Dave, Without getting to crazy this drain is not the right way but it has worked in the past and it will work again.

In the cast iron pipe there is a brass cleanout plug. Lets unscrew that and run some water down the laundry standpipe. Lets see that laundry pipe overflow without having water spill out of the hole where the brass cleanout plug belongs. If water spills out of the hole where the cleanout belongs then you will need to hire a pro to get that line snaked.

If the cleanout stays dry and the standpipe overflows we then will know that the clog is between the tee where the kitchen sink line comes down to and the cast iron.

Are you seeing my logic?

 

[Dave meyers]

I can run water in it,only runs over when the sink upstairs is draining and washer is running so I know its not plugged.just seems like the pipe is under sized.

 

[Gary Swart]

You are exact right. The drain is too small. In a perfect world, you would have a 2" drain for the washer, but to do that would require much cast iron work. I don't think that the galvanized pipe is causing any problem other than it's 1-1/2". You can't use a 2" drain on the washer and then reduce it to connect to the cast iron, it's a major no-no to reduce the size of a drain. So, unless you want to pay a plumber to redo that cast iron, the best thing I can think of is to not use the kitchen sink when you are washing clothes.

 

[Bombjay]

I too like the idea of replacing all that.BUT,you just need to snake the line beween the trap and cast iron stack as it has become clogged.
Just a snake.Good luck.