Ice maker hookup to galvanized pipe
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hook up
No saddle valve.
Cut a galv. tee. into the cold water as near to the fridge as possible. Use a nipple and a 1/2" shut off valve. Then adapt to the 1/4" copper tubing with an iron pipe to a 1/4" copper flare adapter.
I like to use flared fittings all the way to the ice maker. I think that is the most foolproof way not to have a leak, especially when the fridge is moved in and out to clean underneath and behind.
No saddle valve.
Cut a galv. tee. into the cold water as near to the fridge as possible. Use a nipple and a 1/2" shut off valve. Then adapt to the 1/4" copper tubing with an iron pipe to a 1/4" copper flare adapter.
I like to use flared fittings all the way to the ice maker. I think that is the most foolproof way not to have a leak, especially when the fridge is moved in and out to clean underneath and behind.
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Bob NH
In the Trades
"Cut a galv. tee. into the cold water as near to the fridge as possible. "
That's a little like telling someone who wants to see China to climb Mount Everest.
I would find what kind of fittings I needed to insert a tee where the cold water line goes to the kitchen faucet. That is likely to have some kind of "union" type connection where a fitting can be inserted at the end of the pipe. The fridge can't be that far away from the sink.
That's a little like telling someone who wants to see China to climb Mount Everest.
I would find what kind of fittings I needed to insert a tee where the cold water line goes to the kitchen faucet. That is likely to have some kind of "union" type connection where a fitting can be inserted at the end of the pipe. The fridge can't be that far away from the sink.
It has to be in galvanized pipe
I am fairly experienced, and have no problem sweating copper etc, however, I've never run into galvanized pipe. I will evenutally have the house replumbed (if that's a word)
Take my word, you can't tee off the sink.
I understand everybody hates saddle valves.
Had them in every house I've had.
I always go look after moving fridge
In this case if it failed it goes to an area that has drains because it can flood (house is on water)
Can you use a saddle valve on galvanized pipe the same as copper??? Don't want to argue the point of saddle valves on copper. I will say they are fine.
I am fairly experienced, and have no problem sweating copper etc, however, I've never run into galvanized pipe. I will evenutally have the house replumbed (if that's a word)
Take my word, you can't tee off the sink.
I understand everybody hates saddle valves.
Had them in every house I've had.
I always go look after moving fridge
In this case if it failed it goes to an area that has drains because it can flood (house is on water)
Can you use a saddle valve on galvanized pipe the same as copper??? Don't want to argue the point of saddle valves on copper. I will say they are fine.
Gary Swart
In the Trades
Nope, a saddle valve clamps on to a copper pipe and the handle is screwed down so that the pipe is pierced by the shaft. You need to use a tee a cold water line with a valve. This will mean cutting the pipe, threading both ends, installing a union with a nipple. If there is no slack in the line, you will have to cutt out a section to accomodate the tee, union, and nipple. You essentially do the same thing with copper except you don't need a union or have to thread anything.
Mikey
Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek
I don't suppose you could just drill a hole in the pipe, tap it and screw in a male adapter of some kind?
Bob NH
In the Trades
If you can find a place where the pipe is accessible at both ends, you could cut out the iron pipe, unscrew the pieces, and put in copper or CPVC with male adapters at both ends and a proper tee and valve where you need it.
Gary Swart
In the Trades
Assuming for a moment that you could drill and tap the pipe, and that you could find "some kind of adaptor", you would have a very suspect connection that might fail. Moreover, the time and effort to do this would hardly offset the relatively simply cutting and threading a couple of pipe ends and buying standard plumbing fittings. I don't know how successful you would be with drilling and tapping, but it certainly would be a Mickey Mouse setup and Murphey's Law would dictate that when it failed, it would be either in the middle of the night on a weekend or while you were gone on vacation. You can rent or borrow a pipe cutter and a couple of pipe wrenches. Cut the pipe and remove the resulting two sections and take them to a shop and have them threaded. Shorten one of the pipes to allow the insertion of the tee, nipple, and union. Then reassemble everything using pipe dope or tape on the threads. There are times and situtations you can be creative, but this isn't one of them.
Suppose automatic ice will wait till I redo the house with PEX
I don't think I want to start messing with Galvanized Pipe. Doesn't look too hard but it seems that you need tools and once you start pulling on those old pipes...I'm going to hate to see pulling on this breaking that.
I've got PVC going to Galvanized going to Copper going to rubber, back to PVC, back to rubber to Cast Iron.....all on a twelve foot span...........
Going for PEX homeruns with PVC down to the sewer pipe.
I don't think I want to start messing with Galvanized Pipe. Doesn't look too hard but it seems that you need tools and once you start pulling on those old pipes...I'm going to hate to see pulling on this breaking that.
I've got PVC going to Galvanized going to Copper going to rubber, back to PVC, back to rubber to Cast Iron.....all on a twelve foot span...........
Going for PEX homeruns with PVC down to the sewer pipe.
