I replaced the resin in my softener a month ago. Everything was fine until a few days ago where the same problems I had crept back up. Standing water in a toilet bowl would turn yellow which tells me it is clear water iron. I sprinkled some iron out powder into the bowl and the water in the bowl cleared up. Is it possible that my brand new resin already fouled? My unit was backwashing every 1600 gallons. I did not add res care or anything to the brine well so it has only been using salt.
How quickly can new resin foul up?
- Thread starter Rona1d
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ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
Resin can foul up in one day. Cn you post a real water report of your water?
I would recommend NTL labs. http://watercheck.myshopify.com?aff=5
I would recommend NTL labs. http://watercheck.myshopify.com?aff=5
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Bannerman
Well-Known Member
In addition to Ditttohead's comment, we also don't know the capacity of your AIO iron filter and softener, nor do we know the settings programmed for each.
this is something i need to do. which has what I need?
alright so less than two years ago my hot water heater in the house i just bought rusted out. took it back to home depot and was told it was less than 2 years old too. took the anode out today and replaced with with a zinc magnesium one. the rod i took out is almost gone. so why am i going through anode rods in less than 2 years? now i am thinking that it isnt my resin that is the problem, it is the lack of an anode rod causing my pipes to corrode into my water
I did which is why I changed the anode in the first place. I saw that the aluminum magnesium zinc ones take care of the smell so I bought one to switch out anode that came with it. turns out the anode was long gone based on there being nothing left. so it has probably been eating my pipes or the interior of the hot water heater
ditttohead
Water systems designer, R&D
LSI or CI numbers would be beneficial but... some common problems with anodes going out quickly can include certain common problems. pH obviously, but also look at the chloride numbers. Sodium bicarbonate is the result of softening and fairly inert. A properly operating softener should not raise the chloride levels in the water.
As to the powered anode rods, my experience is limited but the science behind them is sound. I have heard mostly positive responses about them and the cost has come down enough in the past 5 years that they seem like a wise investment.
As to the powered anode rods, my experience is limited but the science behind them is sound. I have heard mostly positive responses about them and the cost has come down enough in the past 5 years that they seem like a wise investment.
Everything was fine until the hot water started to smell like sulphur. so I did a bleach hydrogen peroxide soak and now everything is sound for now. I will get a water test and post the results and may go for the powered anode for peace of mind.
For powered anodes, I like the CerAnode unit with the stretchable electrode. I think the stubby electrode units cannot be as effective.
Higher water heater temperature setting may help also.
