Help Please with boiler that wasn't winterized.

[NoPlanB]

We recently purchased a foreclosed cottage in Northern Michigan which had freeze damage. Township records show the house was built in 1968 fwiw. We're not sure if the burst pipe was to the domestic water system or the hot water boiler system. Fannie Mae had the house winterized probably last winter (after the fact).

It's obvious where the pipe burst - in a 11' x 17' addition between the original house and the garage. The floor is buckled in areas and drywall damage is evident primarily along one wall. The boiler is located in an uninsulated framed in room in the corner of the garage. The whole setup is a bit rusty, humidity in the garage seems to be really high the few times we've been there. Garage is uninsulated

We're going up this week to tear out the carpet and subfloor then call a plumbing heating contractor to evaluate the whole situation.

We have a Weil-McLain HE-4 Boiler. Natural Gas - 100,000 BTU - which sounds like a lot for a 900 sq ft cottage. The cottage is on a crawl space and there is no insulation in the floor joists, or along the interior block perimeter walls or rim joists. There is blown in cellulose in the attic. Not sure about the walls, you'd think it was insulated but hard to tell.

I do believe the home was probably built as a summer use only cottage then "upgraded" later to a year round home. There's a bunch of rotting straw bales in the backyard which probably was the winter foundation insulation.

I'm thinking if I repair the burst pipe, wrap all the water & hydronic heating lines with heat tape & insulation, insulate the crawl space perimeter block walls, rim joists & joists we could have a cottage we could use comfortably year round.

The biggest unknown is the boiler. If it needs to be replaced how much of an expense? If it's shot what are our alternatives? I prefer forced air heating or one of the new tankless wall mounted units.

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Tom Sawyer]

If it didn't freeze, it's probably ok. It's also probsbly twice as big as it needs to be but again, it's been in there for 40 years or so. I would fill the heating system, boiler and pipes with anti freeze. Use cyrotek, it's made for heating systems. Don't use car anti freeze or Rv anti freeze either

 

[Sponsor]

 

[BadgerBoilerMN]

Great time to upgrade to a combi-condensing boiler. Get a wifi thermostat and forget about energy wasting anti-freeze.

Only people who have never lived in a radiated home "prefer" forced air.

 

[NoPlanB]

If it didn't freeze, it's probably ok. It's also probsbly twice as big as it needs to be but again, it's been in there for 40 years or so. I would fill the heating system, boiler and pipes with anti freeze. Use cyrotek, it's made for heating systems. Don't use car anti freeze or Rv anti freeze either

Antifreeze sounds interesting: A quick google and I found this: http://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/91756/antifreeze

 

[NoPlanB]

Great time to upgrade to a combi-condensing boiler. Get a wifi thermostat and forget about energy wasting anti-freeze.

Only people who have never lived in a radiated home "prefer" forced air.

Thanks for the suggestions!

I like the idea of a combi-condensing boiler. I have installed a tankless hot water heater in our primary residence a year ago but I know a combi would be a much more challenging DIY project. Kind of scary what a Plbg/Hvac Contractor might charge. Love to go with a wifi thermostatt - wondering if I could run it with my $10/month (5 gb) T-mobile Hotspot device? Wondering if anyone has done that before? Don't want to sign up with the cable company for big $$ at the present time.

I have live in a radiated home before and it was great. However for a vacation cottage, with forced air you don't have to worry about it freezing, plus when you get there you can warm up the house faster.

In the process of doing the repairs I want set it up so I can blow out the domestic water lines easily. I think I can DIY that although the room in the garage where the boiler & well pump etc is may need to be insulated even heated somehow? Any idea if you can do the same with a hydronic system? From the link supplied above it sounds like adding antifreeze could work but it also opens up a bunch of challenges & expenses?

It would be great to be able to conveniently use the place several weekends each winter. The area has a big winter festival, there's always ice fishing, hunting, cross country skiing, snowmobiling etc. If we could enjoy it then quickly blow out the plumbing that would be awesome. Or just apply heat tape & pipe insulation wrap to everything?

 

[Tom Sawyer]

I'm not sure what challenge it opens up but it will cost about a hundred bucks.

 

[NoPlanB]

I'm not sure what challenge it opens up but it will cost about a hundred bucks.

I'd happily pay $100.00 to set up blowing out the boiler system. Not sure how easily & quickly it can be done, I'll ask a contractor when we bring one in. The weather has finally turned cold so were thinking we'll just leave it winterized for now then deal with it late March. Here's hoping for a warm spring!!