I have an Ionics IQ0820B softener and the timer clicks and clunks and runs backwards. I assume it need a new Timer or at least a new motor but I have an unused 10x52 tank and a 7000 SXT valve. The Ionics tank is 8x51 (20,000 grain unit) What is the downside, if any, of just emptying the contents of the Ionics unit into the larger tank and using it instead of repairing the Ionics unit?
Fleck 3210 timer running backwards
- Thread starter jwober
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Ok, let me add a little more info. I have a well, hardness of the raw water is 7 per my Hach 5b tester, I don't care for soft water so I installed a softener bypass (gate valve) to mix treated and untreated water and I adjust to get a hach 5b reading of 2 to 3. I may have issues with the 7000 as the label states 00 injector and confirmed it's purple. the DFLC is external and labeled 10 while the BLFC is marked with 123 so I assume it's a .125 I am guessing the .125 BLFC is fine, not sure about the 00 injector and I am sure I would need a smaller DLFC. I am just trying to save some money while recycling as I am on a fixed income and told I'm just cheap. LOL
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Gsmith22
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any check valves on the flow through softener and the bypass flow? could have an issue where you get water moving in a circle if you don't stop flow from moving backwards through softener. maybe that is causing timer to run backwards?
Edit: bypasses are typically closed while softener is in use; open when softener isn't in use. so you get only one way for flow to go. but you have both open at same time so you could get funky circular flow patterns depending on how much bypass is open, what fixtures are using water downstream, etc. close the bypass, deal with soft water for a little bit (the horror
) and see if you still get timer going backwards
Edit: bypasses are typically closed while softener is in use; open when softener isn't in use. so you get only one way for flow to go. but you have both open at same time so you could get funky circular flow patterns depending on how much bypass is open, what fixtures are using water downstream, etc. close the bypass, deal with soft water for a little bit (the horror
) and see if you still get timer going backwardsI adjust the gate valve in the bypass until I get the desired softness from shower. Yes I do have a check valve installed between the softener and the bypass, I also have a line off before the check valve to supply fully softened water for car washing. This system has been working for 5 or 6 years but water became too hard because softener didn't regen due to clock issue. The clock runs backward even with no water flow.any check valves on the flow through softener and the bypass flow? could have an issue where you get water moving in a circle if you don't stop flow from moving backwards through softener. maybe that is causing timer to run backwards?
Edit: bypasses are typically closed while softener is in use; open when softener isn't in use. so you get only one way for flow to go. but you have both open at same time so you could get funky circular flow patterns depending on how much bypass is open, what fixtures are using water downstream, etc. close the bypass, deal with soft water for a little bit (the horror
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
I am not familiar with that particular softener model (have not been successful finding info online), but I suspect, it maybe equipped with a mechanical timer motor that also powers mechanical gears and linkages during the regeneration cycle.
Was the clock motor or power supply replaced before the issue started?
Some softeners utilize a low voltage timer motor and therefore will often be equipped with a transformer brick to reduce the wall outlet voltage from 115 volts AC down to a lower voltage. While many of the lower voltage motors will utilize 12 or 24 volts AC, your softener might require DC power from the transformer brick.
If the timer motor requires DC power, reversed polarity feeding the motor, could cause the motor to run backward.
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
The appropriate quantity of media within an 8" tank will be only 0.75 cubic feet + bedding gravel.
The appropriate quantity of media for a 10" X 54" tank is 1.5 ft3 + bedding gravel. You said your tank is a 10X52, so 1.25 ft3 media will be the appropriate quantity.
You didn't state the age of the existing softener, nor did you state if your water source is municipal (chlorinated), or a private well.
Constant chlorine exposure will degrade the softening resin more rapidly than non chlorinated water.
If it was me, if there is enough hardness to require a softener, I would buy all new resin and gravel for use in the larger tank.
It's a Fleck (Pentair) 3210 and it uses a 1/3 rpm a.c. clock. My research came up with these motors will start in either direction so they are built with arm which stop reverse rotation and it bounces off the arm and goes the proper direction. Clock motors are still available but I'm not sure I want to spend money on a 20 to 25 year old softener
I don't disagree and I may do that but first I would need to confirm proper size BLFC DLFC and injector. The idea of just emptying the contents of the 8" tank into the 10" tank was a because the resin seems to work fine when I did a manual regen. What is the down side of using .75 cubic feet in a 10 x 54 tank if it's free?
