Drains need to be tweaked...what to do...

[hhcibtpaun]

Hey folks,

I was trying to finalize my drain project today and I may have rushed. Now I need to step back and re-evaluate (so much for rushing).

Here is what I have.

The areas highlighted in green were tweaked a bit when I was gluing together. They popped out while I was seating them, so I lost focus on getting everything perfect and they were clocked a tad. See closeups below:

The image on the left is what prompted me to stop and re-evaluate. It is clocked a bit too much to put a 90 on it. The image on the right is clocked a tiny bit and I could probably live with it.

So, I am thinking I have two options.

Option 1 is to just cut the pipe at the ping line and add in a coupling. That should allow me to get the correct orientation.

Option 2 is to cut at the blue line and add a coupling and redo everything to the left to remove all the little inconsistencies.

Is it better to have the coupling on the shorter run (blue line) or the middle of the longer pipe? Or no difference? Will the coupling cause issues, like buildup of crap in the little gap from the coupling?

I read about different ways to possibly try to unglue, the pipes, but I am thinking a cut with coupling is probably the safest?

Also, do I need to worry about the proximity of the wiring to the drains? I am thinking not, but if I do need to worry, this would be the time to fix...

Oh also, on some joints, when I glue, they pop out....I twist, but sometimes they pop....am I using too much glue?

TIA...Mike

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Go with the simpler option. Cut the vertical left of the window and cut on the vertical under the second elbow.

When you have them glued together, hold the fitting and the pipe together for a full minute.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hhcibtpaun]

Go with the simpler option. Cut the vertical left of the window and cut on the vertical under the second elbow.

When you have them glued together, hold the fitting and the pipe together for a full minute.

Thanks. I looked right past that. I can probably do that. I can hopefully get above the orange wire coming in through the wall; then I will just rebuild the piece with two elbows. To the left of the image, that downpipe does not connect to anything.

Thanks...Mike

 

[Reach4]

I did not understand the problem.

If I had a choice of where to put in a shielded coupling, the pink line looks good to me. But cutting the vertical next to the window may have some advantage.

There are also drain pipe connectors that are like SharkBite connectors are for copper/CPVC pressure pipe. They cost more, but I think that would let you rotate.

 

[hhcibtpaun]

I did not understand the problem.

Sorry. Basically, that last picture I highlighted shows the pipe is not totally perpendicular. I think the pipe popped out, so I was so concerned with holding in an awkward spot, when the glue dried it was off. SO, I just wanted to get it back to perpendicular. If I cut at the ping line in one of my previous pictures, I would just glue in a pvc coupling and be done.

Some of my other joints are slightly off, so I contemplated redoing everything, but that is probably not necessary. I may suffer from some OCD, so I may have to fix it anyway .

Basically, is it better to cut the horizontal or vertical....or does not really matter?

Thanks...Mike

 

[Reach4]

Perpendicular is not a word used in plumbing, AFAIK, other than for esthetics. You want a downslope of 1/4 inch, or more. per foot from level.

I thought you might find there is too much stress and the pipes might not do so well like that. That can be a concern. Or maybe the torsion on the pipe was moving the pipe away from where you want it.